At 4:36 PM -0800 7/3/03, gordon stelter wrote: >A drum made of fiberglass and Titebond(TM) would be >even duller, becuause Titebond(TM) is PVA based >(Polyvinylacetate ) and never dries truly hard. Modern >chewing gum is also PVA. Epoxy dries harder, is a >better sound conductor and more moisture resistant. > Also, Titebond, especially Titebond II, stains >yellow pretty badly, especially on spruce. > Thump While standard PVA adhesives do not 'dry hard' as you mention, and they are also subject to creep, Titebond does not have this problem. When Titebond is properly dried it will shatter when surplus glue is remove with a chisel or scraper. With a tensile strength of over 3000 psi, you will have no problem gluing a bridge with Titebond Extend. The longer working time of Extend can be handy when laminating. We use it for making the laminated sound board cut off. Regarding the positioning of the sound board buttons, I would concur with Ron N. and Del. It is much better to position sound board buttons between ribs and not to screw or dowel into the rib. I have wondered whether it would be better to replace the button screws with maple dowels after the bridge/panel joint has cured. It might help to prevent the tendency of the bridge to pull over. I noticed that Fazioli was doweling the bridges through into the ribs in 1994, however I don't know if it remains their practice today. Ron O. -- _______________________ OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY Grand Piano Manufacturers Web: http://overspianos.com.au mailto:info@overspianos.com.au _______________________
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