Dowelling bridges to board.

[gordon stelter]

It seems to me that if keeping the bridge from
"pulling over" was desired, a dowel through the
bridge, board, and into a big, fat, wooden button,
perhaps 3/4" tall and at least in dameter as the
bridge is wide, would work best. But would this
perceptibly augment notes in the vicinity of the
assembly?
     Just some thoughts.
     T

--- Isaac OLEG <oleg-i@wanadoo.fr> wrote:
> Hello
> 
> And what makes the Titebond crystallizing so much,
> for a PVA based
> emulsion glue ?
> 
> Do you know is there some Phenol in the mix, it does
> not smell as the
> usual acetic odor of the white glues we have in
> Europe ?
> 
> Isaac OLEG
> 
> Entretien et reparation de pianos.
> 
> PianoTech
> 17 rue de Choisy
> 94400 VITRY sur SEINE
> FRANCE
> tel : 033 01 47 18 06 98
> fax : 033 01 47 18 06 90
> cell: 06 60 42 58 77
> 
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> > [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> > part de Ron Overs
> > Envoye : samedi 8 mars 2003 09:16
> > A : Pianotech
> > Objet : RE: Epoxy Man Strikes Again
> >
> >
> > At 4:36 PM -0800 7/3/03, gordon stelter wrote:
> >
> > >A drum made of fiberglass and Titebond(TM) would
> be
> > >even duller, becuause Titebond(TM) is PVA based
> > >(Polyvinylacetate ) and never dries truly hard.
> Modern
> > >chewing gum is also PVA. Epoxy dries harder, is a
> > >better sound conductor and more moisture
> resistant.
> > >     Also, Titebond, especially Titebond II,
> stains
> > >yellow pretty badly, especially on spruce.
> > >      Thump
> >
> > While standard PVA adhesives do not 'dry hard' as
> you mention, and
> > they are also subject to creep, Titebond does not
> have this
> > problem.
> > When Titebond is properly dried it will shatter
> when
> > surplus glue is
> > remove with a chisel or scraper. With a tensile
> strength of
> > over 3000
> > psi, you will have no problem gluing a bridge with
> Titebond Extend.
> > The longer working time of Extend can be handy
> when laminating. We
> > use it for making the laminated sound board cut
> off.
> >
> > Regarding the positioning of the sound board
> buttons, I
> > would concur
> > with Ron N. and Del. It is much better to position
> sound board
> > buttons between ribs and not to screw or dowel
> into the rib. I have
> > wondered whether it would be better to replace the
> button
> > screws with
> > maple dowels after the bridge/panel joint has
> cured. It
> > might help to
> > prevent the tendency of the bridge to pull over. I
> noticed that
> > Fazioli was doweling the bridges through into the
> ribs in 1994,
> > however I don't know if it remains their practice
> today.
> >
> > Ron O.
> > --
> > _______________________
> >
> > OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY
> > Grand Piano Manufacturers
> >
> > Web: http://overspianos.com.au
> > mailto:info@overspianos.com.au
> > _______________________
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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