Epoxy Man Strikes Again

[Farrell]

Ron N. wrote:

"My Titebond attached bridges are clamped  to the board by screws and soundboard buttons alone, with possibly a small  hand clamp on the extreme treble end. Just enough pressure to close any gap  and get some glue squeeze out."

I realize that what you posted is pretty darn clear, but for someone who might be clamp-trust-challanged (I generally like 18 clamps per square inch on most of my projects), I ask for the following clarification: My first bridge that I will be gluing on has rib spacing varying from about six inches to three inches apart. My understanding is that you suggest that one screw/button placed every three to six inches (mid way between each rib) along the bridge will provide sufficient clamping for a Tightbond joint? Might the fearful feel better if a larger block of wood is used temporarily instead of a button?

With your process do you see good glue squeeze-out mid-way between screws (as in on the top side of the board at rib locations)?

Maybe part of my problem is I am imagining this floppy panel - but I suppose it won't be so floppy after ribs are attached.

Terry Farrell
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Nossaman" <RNossaman@cox.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: Epoxy Man Strikes Again


> 
> >4. Tone killer, as reported by a friend who used epoxy glue for a bridge 
> >(as an adhesive).
> >
> >Hmmm. Anyone know anything about this? Or is this an offshoot of the 
> >"circle of sound" theory?
> 
> Not in my experience. Folks have been using epoxy for bridge work for a 
> long time - because it works quite well. If the tone was killed in the 
> piano with an epoxy attached bridge, it was for reasons other than the use 
> (at least the correct use) of epoxy. I habitually bed cutoff bars in, and 
> fill rib mortices with epoxy for new rib scales to very satisfactory affect.
> 
> 
> >I have never glued a bridge to a board. I will be doing so soon. I know 
> >that you need good even clamping pressure when using hide glue or 
> >Titebond. I have fear that I won't get good pressure everywhere. Epoxy 
> >would eliminate that concern. Anyone in the mood to convince me that I 
> >will get a good bond by running a few screws through the board back into 
> >the bridge? Or convince me epoxy is not a good choice - haven't seen good 
> >evidence yet!
> >
> >Terry Farrell
> 
> 
> I've always done it just that way. My Titebond attached bridges are clamped 
> to the board by screws and soundboard buttons alone, with possibly a small 
> hand clamp on the extreme treble end. Just enough pressure to close any gap 
> and get some glue squeeze out. I guarantee that anything past an hour later 
> (actually, more like 10 minutes), you won't get one of those bridges off 
> that board without destroying the board. Why in the world wouldn't that be 
> adequate? It just isn't any more critical than that.
> 
> If you want to use epoxy, by all means do it instead of asking to be talked 
> out of it. It shouldn't do any harm, but I don't see any reason to go to 
> the trouble, and there won't be a discernable performance benefit or 
> penalty either way.
> 
> Ron N
> 
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