(I am also really tired of the junk postings on the list!!!!! We have lists for humor, and lists for politics, but please! if you need a forum for your thoughts on either topic, go somewhere else and stop trashing our tech list!) << To try to decrease the aftertouch I lowered the sample hammers to 1 13/16 distance and even more, still - aftertouch too much! Am I missing something? A fine pianist is coming to do a program on this instrument soon and I want it to be "right". >> Greetings, Steinways call for custom regulation specs. They are all different, so your set-up will be too. Here are some beginning ideas. All the stuff like keybedding, spring setting, and key leveling etc. should be done before any of this. This sounds like a high ratio action, which means the hammer gets all of its distance covered with less than normal key movement. These actions tend to have a lot of lead in them and often begin to feel heavier and heavier as you play them harder and harder,(inertia problems surpassing down/weight ease). If the key leading is normal, and you have average down/weight, the hammers may be rather small. "Too much aftertouch" means either the key dip is too deep or the hammers are too high, or the let-off is too low. The amount of drop and the beginning position of the jack/knuckle will not change aftertouch dimensions. If you lower the hammers a lot, you will need to recheck both of these measurments, (and don't forget the springs) The hammer shanks can't be too far off the cushion or you risk catastropic repetition failure. The key dip can't be much over .410", (and many pianists feel that is too deep), otherwise, the sharps will be too tall or they will begin to bury themselves at the bottom of the stroke. Soooo....... I would suggest you lower the hammer line until it is approx. has at least 1/8" and no more than 3/16" clearance over the rest cushions, set your let-off as closely as possible, (I usually set it to just clear the string excursion zone with two staccato blows while the damper is held by the sostenuto), and then place a .35" punching on top of the front rail punching. Slowly depress the key and add punchings until the hammer just barely escapes upon contact of the key to the punchings. Then remove the .40" punching. This is the "aftertouch priority" method and will give you consistant aftertouch, (and slightly varied keydip). You may substitute a thinner or thicker dimension if your sense of touch calls for it. The more aftertouch, the slower the repetition, (see R. Jolly's postings on the "black hole" of aftertouch). If some keys have radically different keydips because of this, you can split the difference between hammer blow and keydip, ie, if a key still has .40" aftertouch but is less than 3/8", you can lower the hammer on that key, if the dip is too deep on one key that has .40" aftertouch, raise the hammer a little. This leaves a slightly ragged hammerline, but will allow your dip AND aftertouch to become more consistant. Ideally, when the hammer is held in check, the jack will be located equally between the proximal side of the knuckle and the mortise stop felt. You can cheat on this backwards or forwards, but if the jack has excessive pressure on the mortise felt it will endanger the jack tail glue joints and cause rapid wear on the let-off punchings. Backcheck distance will affect this positioning, too, (the lower the checking, the less room there is for the jack between the knuckle and the back of the mortise). There is no need for the drop position to be farther from the string than let-off. It will change, however, with change of keydip, so be ready to recheck it. The backcheck distance will also change with keydip , so don't forget to go over it after all else is done. Regards, Ed Foote RPT www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/ www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
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