Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions

[Phil Frankenberg]

I was taught that mutton fat was the reason for verdigris in steinway action
centers. Can someone confirm or deny this?
Thanks

Phil Frankenberg
Chico Ca.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 6:25 AM
Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions


> Thanks for the input Kerry. A couple comments.
>
> Regarding hide or Titebond. I know this has been gone over a billion
times, but on this action several jack flanges had been repaired with yellow
wood glue. The original hide glue came off effortlessly with a little water
action - wippens cleaned up perfectly. The wippens that had yellow glue
applied (of course I don't know exactly what it was) did soften, but
required a fair bit of scraping to thoroughly clean it. I just delight in
how easy hide glue is removed.
>
> Mutton fat! Yikes! Where on earth would I find that? And is that something
that will not affect the action cloth on the damper lever, and is that
something that can be expected to last for many decades?
>
> Terry Farrell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kerry Cooper" <brispiano@optushome.com.au>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 8:46 AM
> Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I will be installing new jacks and attached flanges. Is it best to
simply
> > apply hide glue, stick together and let dry? Or are their any
significant
> > secrets to the process?
> >
> > You can use hide glue or Tite-bond.
> >
> > > I will be replacing heel/capstan action cloth. Is hide glue applied
over
> > the entire cloth/wood surface? Or is it just applied at the forward and
back
> > ends of the action cloth so that there is no glue between the cloth and
> > wooden wippen heel?
> >
> > Glue is applied only to forward and back ends only. This stops any
future
> > noise that might arise due to glue soaking into the Box/action cloth.
> >
> > > The spoons are tarnished a bit. I would rather not replace if I can
make
> > like new easily. I can simply give them a second or two on the buffing
wheel
> > and they will be shiny as ever - but what about the surface metal left -
> > will it corrode faster than a new spoon? Can I coat the buffed spoon
with
> > Emrlon (or something like that - thought I had seen it in Schaff catalog
for
> > coating capstans - couldn't find it again) or something else?
> >
> > Buff spoons, and light coat of mutton fat. Just a smear to protect from
air.
> >
> > Kerry
> >
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