Upright Wippen & Mutton fat

[Phil Frankenberg]

Kerry
You state "Verdigris on centrepins does not come from mutton fat, it is a
natural effect of brass that has been polished by the felt bushing and then
let sit in a humid climate". In my experience I have never seen verdigris on
any piano other than Steinway, though I have seen many pianos that sat in a
humid climate for long periods that did not have verdigris. It seems to me
there must be another factor here. I really don't know if it's sheep tallow,
I was told it was some 25 yrs ago ,but nothing to back it up. Why does this
seem to be at least mostly a Steinway phenonenon?
Thanks

Phil Frankenberg

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kerry Cooper" <brispiano@optushome.com.au>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions


> Terry,
>
> I use animal glue (unprepared hide glue) to glue all felt and leather. As
> Gordon has said, hide glue is effected by humidity, it is advantagiuos to
> use a glue that is more stable for wood joints. However I am a big
believer
> in using animal glue because when used at the right consistency it does
not
> soak into felt, dry quickly, lasts the life of the felt
> and can be easly removed when next time the piano has to be
> rebuilt/repaired.
>
> As for mutton fat, the true mutton fat does not have any salt, or acids
that
> can harm metals. True mutton fat is obtained by rendering down the fat
from
> around the kidneys of a sheep, the best fat comes from prize winning rams.
> Verdigris on centrepins does not come from mutton fat, it is a natural
> effect of brass that has been polished by the felt bushing and then let
sit
> in a humid climate. Mutton fat is or should never be used on centrepins.
If
> copious amounts of mutton fat is applied to metal parts, then you will get
> side affects. The more use of unnatural man made products in every day
life
> can cause problems in the future.
>
> Kerry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 12:25 AM
> Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions
>
>
> > Thanks for the input Kerry. A couple comments.
> >
> > Regarding hide or Titebond. I know this has been gone over a billion
> times, but on this action several jack flanges had been repaired with
yellow
> wood glue. The original hide glue came off effortlessly with a little
water
> action - wippens cleaned up perfectly. The wippens that had yellow glue
> applied (of course I don't know exactly what it was) did soften, but
> required a fair bit of scraping to thoroughly clean it. I just delight in
> how easy hide glue is removed.
> >
> > Mutton fat! Yikes! Where on earth would I find that? And is that
something
> that will not affect the action cloth on the damper lever, and is that
> something that can be expected to last for many decades?
> >
> > Terry Farrell
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kerry Cooper" <brispiano@optushome.com.au>
> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 8:46 AM
> > Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I will be installing new jacks and attached flanges. Is it best to
> simply
> > > apply hide glue, stick together and let dry? Or are their any
> significant
> > > secrets to the process?
> > >
> > > You can use hide glue or Tite-bond.
> > >
> > > > I will be replacing heel/capstan action cloth. Is hide glue applied
> over
> > > the entire cloth/wood surface? Or is it just applied at the forward
and
> back
> > > ends of the action cloth so that there is no glue between the cloth
and
> > > wooden wippen heel?
> > >
> > > Glue is applied only to forward and back ends only. This stops any
> future
> > > noise that might arise due to glue soaking into the Box/action cloth.
> > >
> > > > The spoons are tarnished a bit. I would rather not replace if I can
> make
> > > like new easily. I can simply give them a second or two on the buffing
> wheel
> > > and they will be shiny as ever - but what about the surface metal
left -
> > > will it corrode faster than a new spoon? Can I coat the buffed spoon
> with
> > > Emrlon (or something like that - thought I had seen it in Schaff
catalog
> for
> > > coating capstans - couldn't find it again) or something else?
> > >
> > > Buff spoons, and light coat of mutton fat. Just a smear to protect
from
> air.
> > >
> > > Kerry
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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>
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