Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions

[gordon stelter]

That is very thorough Terry, but I have always just
rebushed the existing flanges unless the wood is
rotten or brittle. If you are installing new jacks, be
prepared though, that the tips may not be as smooth
and niceley shaped as the vintage stuff.
     T

--- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> Why? Well, such as now, because I am rebuilding the
> wippens. If I am rebuilding an action, ALL flanges
> are replaced. Anything less would be less than a
> proper rebuild, IMHO. My question would then be, if
> one is rebuilding upright wippens, why wouldn't you
> want to remove the jack flange?
> 
> Terry Farrell
>   
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 3:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions
> 
> 
> > Yes, Terry,
> >      Hide glue is easy to remove. But on jack
> flanges
> > it is notorious for becoming weak with humidity
> > swings. Why would anyone WANT to remove a jack
> flange,
> > UNLESS said looseness was the reason, anyawy? I
> > suggest Titebond here (waterproof!).
> >      T
> > 
> > --- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> > > Thanks for the input Kerry. A couple comments.
> > > 
> > > Regarding hide or Titebond. I know this has been
> > > gone over a billion times, but on this action
> > > several jack flanges had been repaired with
> yellow
> > > wood glue. The original hide glue came off
> > > effortlessly with a little water action -
> wippens
> > > cleaned up perfectly. The wippens that had
> yellow
> > > glue applied (of course I don't know exactly
> what it
> > > was) did soften, but required a fair bit of
> scraping
> > > to thoroughly clean it. I just delight in how
> easy
> > > hide glue is removed.
> > > 
> > > Mutton fat! Yikes! Where on earth would I find
> that?
> > > And is that something that will not affect the
> > > action cloth on the damper lever, and is that
> > > something that can be expected to last for many
> > > decades?
> > > 
> > > Terry Farrell
> > >   
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Kerry Cooper"
> <brispiano@optushome.com.au>
> > > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 8:46 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > >
> > > > > I will be installing new jacks and attached
> > > flanges. Is it best to simply
> > > > apply hide glue, stick together and let dry?
> Or
> > > are their any significant
> > > > secrets to the process?
> > > > 
> > > > You can use hide glue or Tite-bond.
> > > > 
> > > > > I will be replacing heel/capstan action
> cloth.
> > > Is hide glue applied over
> > > > the entire cloth/wood surface? Or is it just
> > > applied at the forward and back
> > > > ends of the action cloth so that there is no
> glue
> > > between the cloth and
> > > > wooden wippen heel?
> > > > 
> > > > Glue is applied only to forward and back ends
> > > only. This stops any future
> > > > noise that might arise due to glue soaking
> into
> > > the Box/action cloth.
> > > > 
> > > > > The spoons are tarnished a bit. I would
> rather
> > > not replace if I can make
> > > > like new easily. I can simply give them a
> second
> > > or two on the buffing wheel
> > > > and they will be shiny as ever - but what
> about
> > > the surface metal left -
> > > > will it corrode faster than a new spoon? Can I
> > > coat the buffed spoon with
> > > > Emrlon (or something like that - thought I had
> > > seen it in Schaff catalog for
> > > > coating capstans - couldn't find it again) or
> > > something else?
> > > > 
> > > > Buff spoons, and light coat of mutton fat.
> Just a
> > > smear to protect from air.
> > > > 
> > > > Kerry
> > > > 
> > > >
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