In the past, after removing the old buttons I’ve laid the new buttons in their approximate position on each key in turn, marking the underside of the button with a pencil as I go along, naturals first, then sharps. Then cut the buttons apart on a bandsaw, cutting well outside the lines to leave at least 1/8” between adjacent buttons. Use the Jaras jig or some other method to locate and glue buttons on the end keys. Once dry, trim these samples and reinstall on the keyframe. With frontrail punching removed, block up all keys using a 48” length of hardwood ¼” or so thick, running from bass to treble just behind the frontrail pins for the sharps. Reinstall all the naturals, clamp a 48” metal straight-edge to the tops of the keys just behind and butted against the back of the new buttons. Now, it’s a simple matter to apply glue to a button, place it on the key and slide it firmly against the straight-edge while pressing the key firmly down onto the hardwood strip (to make sure that the key is sitting square). Then remove the key while holding the button in position and clamp with a 3” spring clamp. Once you’ve done the naturals, remove them from the keyframe and repeat the procedure with the sharps. Rough trim the buttons on the bandsaw, removing the last little bit of overhang with a sharp hand plane. - Mark
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