Breakdown measurements

[Wimblees@aol.com]

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In a message dated 3/28/03 11:31:44 AM Central Standard Time, 
kpiano@goldrush.com writes:

> Do I need the distance from the upper or front bridge pin to the hitch pin? 
> What backscale dimension would the scale designer find necessary? The plate 
> bearing points? 
>    On the plain tri-cords do I need any more than just the speaking length 
> and wire size?
>   
> Keith Roberts
> 

Keith

The best and easiest thing to do is to send the bass strings to a company 
that duplicates them. Be sure they stay in order. Cut them off at the tuning 
pin. When you send them the set, be sure to include the name and serial 
number of the piano. 

If you don't want to send the strings, you can make a paper pattern. It's a 
little more difficult to do on an upright. The pattern should include 
indentations of where the tuning pins are, the agraffs or upper hitch pins, 
the windings, both at the top and the bottom of the strings, the bridge pins, 
and the hitch pins. Again, on the pattern, write the name and serial number 
of the piano. 

If you don't want to use either one of those methods, you can give them the 
dimensions of the first bass string and the last bass string, including the 
thickness of the core, and the measurements you indicated. It's a lot more 
work on your part, and you run the risk that you didn't write down the 
correct measurements. I would do this only as a last resort. 

As far as the plain wires, all you need is s the scale. Measure each string, 
and indicate how many notes to a string size. You don't need any other 
measurement, like the distance between the hitch pin and the bridge, etc. 

As far a rescaling, that's up to you. It might be more trouble than it's 
worth, especially on an older upright, unless you are convinced the scaling 
needs to be different. In 25 years of rebuilding, I have never rescaled a 
piano. I made one up once, when I got a piano without any strings. 

Wim 

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