hammer change - shaping

[Isaac OLEG]

Hi Andre, well said !

> Using # 80 is a very fast method and very dangerous. I
> prefer 3M #40 as it has more of a polishing quality but still has
'teeth'.
> In that case you 'do something' to the surface of the crown and
> underneath the crown without really taking off whole chunks of meat.

I guess you talk about the 3M microfinshing film 3M 40 microns,
something like a 360 grit with classic sanding paper . for sure have
nothing to do with 80 grit linen or paper. But I remember having seen
you giving a fast crown shape to a set with 120 grit (followed with a
finer one)

For initial shaping the 80 - 100 or 120 grits seem appropriate are not
they ?

AT the conservatory they file, then they go for a little deep needling
in the shoulders (leaving final voicing/mating to the tuner), but I
suspect that they don't try to keep the original voicing in shape .
Are you saying that if power is still in the cushion and low
shoulders, masked by the top hardness  that it is unnecessary or even
dangerous to try to rejuvenate these zones before shaping because
their consistence can't be feel/hear if the top of the hammer is
hardened and out of shape ?

But if you file and limit the marks first, then have to smoothen the
hard top, you are due for another pass of fine filing or ironing - not
sure I understand in what order you proceed then.

B.T.W. is not the term "shoe shine filing" appropriate because we have
to "raise the nap" from time to time on the back of the hammer (with a
reverse stroke, that is due on some felts) !


Best and thanks for all that good food material about apples, oranges,
mandarins, and so on (correct me if I wrong)

Then good night

greetings

Isaac