Keytop trimming jig

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Hi folks,
Dean did a great job adapting the jig to a two piece unit so that it can be
used on a chop saw. It takes a little longer to use the two piece jig
becuase there are two setups involved, but the same results are achieved.
Either jig will be on loan for you to copy for the cost of shipping. $20.00
My end.
Joe Goss
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dkoger" <dkoger@ameritech.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 2:34 PM
Subject: Keytop trimming jig


> I was recently preparing to replace a set of keytops when I ran across a
key
> trimming jig on the Mother Goose Tools web site
(www.mothergoosetools.com).
> The site said to contact Joe Goss if you were interested in making your
own
> jig, so I contacted Joe and he was kind enough to ship me his jig to use
as
> a pattern.  I made my own copy of the jig and thought I would share my
> experiences in making and using it in case anybody else is interested.
>
> The jig uses a compound power miter saw to trim both the top and end of
the
> key.  Actually, a non-compound saw should work as long as it has a way to
> fine tune the tilt to exactly 90 degrees.  Joe apparently has a sliding
type
> saw whereas mine does not slide, as a result I had to change the design so
> that the key is positioned further away from the saw fence.  This also
> required me to build the jig in two pieces, one for the top of the key and
> another for the end.  Both fixtures can be mounted on a single base if you
> have a sliding saw.  Since I only had the 30 tooth blade that came with
the
> saw, a woodworker friend suggested I buy a Dewalt 96 tooth woodworking
> blade.  What a difference, the keytops were almost as smooth as glass
after
> they were cut.
>
> I made the wood parts of the jig out of Melamine shelf board which is
> particle board covered with plastic on both sides. Its very flat and
> inexpensive, and the jig can be secured to the saw with a few dabs from a
> hot glue gun between the saw bed and the jig base near the saw fence.  To
> remove the jig when done, just lift up on the base and pop it free.
>
> The actual cutting of the keytops goes very fast, but you should initially
> spend a little time in adjusting the jig.  I cut up some scrap wood into
the
> shape of a key and practiced cutting until I got the jig and saw adjusted
> properly.  This is very important as you could quickly do a lot of damage
> otherwise.
>
> I highly recommend this jig as it is quick and inexpensive (except for
that
> saw blade I bought) to make, does a whole set of keys very quickly, and
> gives really excellent results.  I'm sure Joe would be glad to help if
> anybody is interested.
>
> Dean Koger
>
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