No Power Yamaha revisited

[Isaac OLEG]

But, Richard, that is felt in the tone and in the key if the bedding
is not firm enough.

When playing hard the back of the frame tend to lift up, may be you
may check the holding of the rail there.

If too much pressure on the screws, the tone became more "woody" and
straight, the more power that you have is also coming from the letoff
which is nearer, but mostly (I believe)  because the hammer center pin
is then higher, and if the hammers are less tall than originally this
correct the geometry of the hammer towards the strings a little.

For what is worth, the point by point method as explained by Andre
works every time - but you are supposed to know what key height is the
norm for the model, it helps a lot to have an even ratio between
blacks and whites, and put the keys in their optimum position for
regulation.

Thanks for the feedback.

BTW I bed the keybed of a C6 today, with the regulating screws a good
2-3 mm lower, the key height was 64.5 mm, allowing for 10 mm dip,
measured with the nice brown 9.95 mm dip block from Yamaha.

The Yamaha (-French) explanation about the use of this tool (and why
it is not really exactly 10 mm) is that it is easier to feel the block
while it is a little lower than the adjacent keys, we aim for the same
sensation than the little play in the jack's windows. I like these
over simplified approaches !

Best greetings



Isaac OLEG

Entretien et reparation de pianos.

PianoTech
17 rue de Choisy
94400 VITRY sur SEINE
FRANCE
tel : 033 01 47 18 06 98
fax : 033 01 47 18 06 90
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> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> part de Richard Brekne
> Envoye : jeudi 22 mai 2003 18:12
> A : Pianotech
> Objet : Re: No Power Yamaha revisited
>
>
> Ok guys and gals...
>
> I gots to eat crow here...  I think anyways. As it turns
> out I managed
> to finnally solve the hammers bouncing all over the place thing by
> turning up all the bed screws so that the key frame was
> solidly bedded
> with the actuall wood of the balance rail a full 2 mm
> elevated over the
> key bed. Huge increase in power, but this also caused an increase in
> keydip to 10.5 mm (!) and forced a drop in blow to just above the
> cushions... perhaps the shanks are about 2-3 mm off. However....
> absolutly no bouncing of neighboring hammers any more, and
> that feeling
> of loosing power is gone.
>
> What I dont get is why the Balance Rail needs to be
> elevated so much.
> And how are we supposed to determine the proper balance
> rail height to
> begin with ? I was always told that glide bolts need to just make
> contact with the key bed... not to lift the whole darn
> middle of the key
> frame up.
>
> Explainations please ?
>
> RicB
>
> --
> Richard Brekne
> RPT, N.P.T.F.
> UiB, Bergen, Norway
> mailto:rbrekne@broadpark.no
> http://home.broadpark.no/~rbrekne/ricmain.html
> http://www.hf.uib.no/grieg/personer/cv_RB.html
>
>
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