The basics of tuning

tune4u@earthlink.net tune4u@earthlink.net
Tue, 27 May 2003 09:28:35 -0500


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This picture prompts a comment: If it's made by Korg and/or has a swinging
needle or a little arc of LED's and/or costs less than several hundreds of
dollars, it is not for the piano. The piano must be tuned to relative pitch
intervals based on upper partials (harmonics) of the strings, not just
fundamental pitches. If A (49th key from the bottom) is accurately set at
440 Hrz, then middle C is not exactly the same "C" that the guitar-type
tuner calls "middle C" Even setting that first A440 can actually be done by
ear (beat matching, NOT pitch matching) more accurately than by matching a
swinging needle. You can invest in a Verituner, Accu-Tuner, or a computer
with TuneLab or Cybertuner Software, etc., and-yes-they will compute and
store a good tuning for your instrument. But that's a lot of bucks for
something that is not a money-making business investment!

 

All you really need, besides instruction and much practice, is one tuning
fork (A440 unless you are reading an old book calling for a C fork), your
wedge mutes, your tuning hammer (should be called a wrench but isn't, just
to confuse the public), and maybe your felt strip (optional, helpful in
learning). I'd put the tuner back in the guitar case. By the way, your
hammer will not be as easy to use as one that is less flexible (more
expensive).  By the way, it looks like your piano needs some dental
work--ask your tuner about some replacement ivories or a whole new set of
shiny keytops. BTW, sunlight bleaches ivory; it gets yellow in the dark. So
leave your fallboard open for a few decades to get that like-new look back.
Just kidding. They can be bleached with Peroxide-not the kind in your
bathroom, the kind that hairdressers use (careful, it's dangerous).

 

Have fun. 

 

Alan Barnard

Salem, MO


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