Key dip

[Alpha88x@aol.com]

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Clyde,

        In my experience at school, there was a similar problem in a studio 
upright in one of the rooms at school. There were no punchings that could be 
removed except the the cloth ones from under the balance rail. Our teacher 
suggested that the key itself may have swelled from moisture and never shrunk back 
and the whole key lever may be a slight bit bigger (hence sit higher on the 
balance rail than originally made to). 
        We took about a 150 sandpaper and sanded off a slight bit to bring 
the key back down. It worked. But we only sanded a few thousandths. When one 
sands, the bottom of a key, it must be sanded a bit, put back tested then 
removed, sanded a bit more, checked again and one has to keep repeating the process 
until the desired height is achived (Just a possiblity) Does this make sense?

Julie
Reading

          
In a message dated 11/6/03 6:33:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
cedel@supernet.com writes:

> Friends,
> 
> While tuning a 1980 Wurlitzer studio piano today I noticed some of the
> bass hammers would damp the strings depending on how they were played.
> Letoff was fine, but there was too much keydip, resulting in the
> backchecks pushing the hammers into the strings after letoff.
> 
> It appears to me that all other specs will be in the correct range if
> the keydip is reduced.  Can this be done by shimming up the front rail
> of the key frame, if there are no shims to remove from under the balance
> rail?  I've never tried this.  I could put card punchings under all the
> front felt punchings, I know.  Advice?
> 
> Regards, Clyde
> 
> 


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