Make a soundboard--Measurements

[Erwinspiano@aol.com]

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In a message dated 10/23/2003 11:19:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk writes:
Hello RicB
It would be very important to set down the criteria for measurement of
soundboards. That must be the starting point. If everyone who wants to
partake in this research takes all the stipulated points for measurements
then there might be some realistic steps taken. Be sure to make the names of
these points international!..;-)
Regards
Michael G (UK)
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     Michael, Ric Glenn
   Well, Michael, I don't know if you'd call it research. List you proposed 
on measuring things & observations are really probably already outlined in the 
journal & are just some of the measurements all soundboard installers use. 
  I.E. Measuring string heights, Plate height, bass & treble 88, mark the 
front corner of the plate & measure the distance fore & aft in mm to the case 
side. These locate the plate. Note any odd things about the bridges. I.E. 
inadequate side bearings, strings not going straight to the hitch pins, funky 
notching angels you don't wish to duplicate. Measure down to the top of the plate at 
the bosses. This allows you to set the height of you dowels later if you use 
them.
  Measure the string scale. If funky after unstringing measure string lengths 
& crunch the no.s. Often note 88 is too short for decent tensions in the last 
section. You may want to move the bridge as on many older 1800s S&S grands.
   Note the angle of the bridge top to the board. I don't often do this but 
every piece of info can be helpful.
   (Observation)Look at the thickness of the board thru the action cavity at 
the belly rail & see how it tapers. (Mental note)
  Observation) Any crown left any bearing left. Does the bearing string still 
touch the bridge now the strings are removed. is the bridge below the string 
plane?
  Pull the plate. Pull the bridge pins. make a GOOD pattern noting hole side 
notch cut. Use a bridge pin bit drilled straight down thru the bridge to 
locate the mylar pattern. Place mylar (I use 10 mil) over bridge and tap no. 6 pin 
thru mylar. It make a cleaner hole than drilling thru it.
  I always measure at least first and last string lengths on the long bridge 
& bass bridge. 
   Very important: Bridge location markers.
   I do this 2 ways. I drill straight down. straight is very important thru 
the top of the bridge at not 88 with a 3/16 bit and thru the board & into the 
belly rail. This will help locate the top of the bridge very precisely. I also 
do the same in the tenor end, drilling into a beam if possible. I also take 
direct measurements with a metric ruler to the side of the case at each end of 
each bridge. 
  I also measure the distance from the no. 88  bridge pin hole to the side of 
the case & stretcher. This eliminates the possibility of getting pattern 
located  wrong. There are other ways. Rebuilders please chime in.
   Drill out dowels remove treble cap screws. Now the fun part. It's time to 
knock the board out
   Any body tired yet? More later. going to work
  Later--Dale
  

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