I do that regularly. When I pitch raise a really flat piano - maybe 25+ cents - I try to leave it anywhere between A440 and A442 (assuming it is not a pitch-critical situation like concert with other insruments that evening, etc.). This is especially useful for those of us who have trouble doing a 100-cent pitch raise and coming within 0.01 cents of A440 target. ;-) I'll tell the customer that I'm leaving it a tad sharp - so that it doesn't go flat before I get out the front door! Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey@sbcglobal.net> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 8:50 PM Subject: Re: Pitch Raising Techniques > I've thought about leaving the piano above pitch...maybe +5 cents. Seems like a good idea on the seldom tuned piano...speaking of which I'll leave my own piano a little sharp next time...;-] > > David I. > > > > ----- Original message ----------------------------------------> > From: Dave Nereson <davner@kaosol.net> > To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > Received: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 00:45:50 -0700 > Subject: Re: Pitch Raising Techniques > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Matthew Todd" <toddpianoworks@yahoo.com> > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 9:15 PM > >Subject: Pitch Raising Techniques > > > Can some of you tell me what pitch raising techniques work the best for > >you?? > >> Thanks! > > > For me, it's faster to raise pitch without the ETA (ETD). I overshoot > >between 20 and 50%, depending on the piano. The amount of overshoot is > >determined partly by an intuitive guess. If it's a new piano that I suspect > >has only had one or two tunings in the store, and it's two beats flat at A > >49, I'll pitch-raise it to one beat sharp (50%). And if it's 7 beats flat, > >I'll still overshoot by 3 or 4 beats, which is more than an ETD might do, > >but I know it's going to stretch and go flat anyway, plus most people let > >'em go too long, so I might as well leave it a bit sharp. > > But on an older piano, I don't overshoot as much because the strings are > >already stretched, and some of 'em might break, so if it's, say, 6 beats > >flat, I'll pitch raise it to 2 beats sharp (about 30%) at A 49. > > If the piano is really old (before 1900), or if I sense or observe that > >the piano seems brittle, unlikely to hold a tuning at a higher tension, or > >has a propensity to break strings, or if I see that strings have been > >replaced or spliced, I'll not pitch-raise it above A=440, and if it's really > >flat (1/2-step or more), I'll advise the owner that it may not be advisable > >to bring it up to standard pitch. > > There are exceptions. If I think it was up to pitch at some point not > >too long ago, sometimes I'll tighten plate screws and/or seat bridge pins to > >jostle the strings a bit at their bearing points, then take the pitch-raise > >risk. > > I strip mute the piano, tune the temperament using one octave and 4ths > >and 5ths -- no other checks -- then do all the octaves up, right-hand > >unisons coming down, left-hand unisons going back up, then the bass octaves, > >then their unisons. That's the fastest way for me. I only do "unisons as > >you go" for the final tuning. I've tried doing "unisons as you go" on a > >pitch raise and don't find it to be any more stable than my faster method, > >plus I don't have to keep leap-frogging mutes. > > --David Nereson, RPT > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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