regulation problems in Aeolian era M and H 50"

[antares]

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List,

In regard to this regulation subject I would like to say this :
It is a basic rule to start a regulation with the key frame and the=20
keys i.e. regulating the key frame with the key frame bolts, thereby,=20
as a (possible) consequence, bringing the keys to the required key=20
height, followed by key leveling and fine adjustment of key dip.
To do this the right way the technician MUST know the desired key hight=20=

as prescribed by the factory. Yamaha models up to C7 have for instance=20=

a (white) key height of 64 mm and smaller Steinway models 63 mm, (from=20=

the upper surface of the key bed to the bottom of the white key top=20
covering).
It is essential to have the correct knowledge of the key height because=20=

the keyboard is the basis of all regulation.
After having gone through this keyboard/key frame regulation first, we=20=

follow the regulation procedure we all should be acquainted with, or=20
can find in several service manuals (Reblitz, Steinway, Yamaha).

It is my experience that if we do this right, every regulation could=20
result in a perfectly playing piano (unless the instrument is a pos=20
from the start).

friendly greetings
from
Andr=E9 Oorebeek

Vita Dura Est




On 19-dec-04, at 5:36, Michael Spalding wrote:

> Dave,
> =A0
> I would take the opposite approach to the typical "sticky key"=20
> troubleshooting scenario:=A0 in that case, you start at the key and =
work=20
> towards the hammer, and in this case, I would start at the hammer and=20=

> work back towards the key.=A0 Hammer travels smoothly up and back?=A0=20=

> fine, now look at the dampers, by themselves, then on the pedal.=A0=20
> Plenty of travel?=A0 No hangups?=A0 Now lift the wip, and see how =
damper=20
> lift times with the hammer, see if you can get significantly beyond=20
> letoff before running into big resistance.=A0 etc.
> =A0
> One other thought:=A0 Does this Mason have the cheezy Aeolian=20
> sostenuto?=A0 The one with pointy wires protruding from the bottom of=20=

> the damper levers, and a flexible rubber "blade"?=A0 Make sure the=20
> damper levers are not running into the sos blade during normal play.=A0
>  =A0
> lotsa luck
> =A0
> Mike
> =A0
> =A0
> ----- Original Message -----
>  From:
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Sent: 12/18/2004 2:34:45 PM
>  Subject: regulation problems in Aeolian era M and H 50"
>
> Salutations,
>
>  I've got some regulation problems on a 50 inch Mason upright from the=20=

> 70s. =A0I've worked on other Aeolian uprights of that vintage, and =
some=20
> of them have the same problem. =A0
>
> The initial problem was that the keys weren't bottoming out on=20
> punchings. =A0It seems that it's been that way since new(though they=20=

> bought it used). =A0There was a huge gap between the bottom of the key=20=

> and the punching when the key was depressed. =A0This led to hammers=20
> blocking, bobbling, and a feel that could only be described as spongy.=20=

> =A0
>
> At my last visit, I added punchings, and improved the feel somewhat,=20=

> but some of the bobbling is still there. =A0I also had to increase=20
> letoff distance in some areas of the keyboard an unacceptable amount=20=

> to get it to work without hammers b! locking against strings.
>
>  I think that the main problem is that the key height is too great.=20
> =A0It was somewhere around 70mm, though I forgot to write it down. =
=A0More=20
> precise measurements are necessary, and they will be forthcoming after=20=

> my next visit there in January. =A0Blow distance is at 1 7/8(the only=20=

> thing in the piano that seems at spec...:-), but it doesn't seem to be=20=

> enough.
>
>  I tried lowering the key height on a few sample keys by removing=20
> balance rail punchings, but there was nowhere near enough aftertouch.=20=

> =A0Should I try increasing blow distance to 2 inches or more? =A0Any=20=

> ideas??? =A0Haaalp?? =A0
>
>  Any input is welcome,
>
>  Dave Stahl
>

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