Paper backed veneer may be flat, but I'd investigate whether the veneer might separate from the paper, as I have heard it may by my local supplier, Furniture Care, in Marietta, Ga.. Call Highland Hardware in Atlanta, or a veneer supplier ( tons of them listed in rear of "fine Woodworking". They know a lot about this stuff. Thump P.S. Is poplar better for a lid this size than furniture grade plywood, like beech??? Just curious. I have a lid to build also, and am really interested in learning what everyone knows about this. --- "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net> wrote: > > > > List, > > Always willing to try something once, I am in the > middle of making a lid > for an 8' grand from scatch. The piano is ebony. > The core is poplar. The > question regards vaneer. > > Has any used the paper backed vaneer in a > situation such as this? Could > that be used as only on layer? Or should it be used > in two layers? Or is it > better to just use regular, unbacked vaneer and > cross band it? > > Andrew Remillard > > [Paul Chick (Earthlink)] > I've done this on smaller than lid size pieces. > I, personally, would not > skip the cross banding. Telegraphing can ruin it > sooner or later. Maple > crossbanding works well. The paper backed veneer is > thinner but quite > stable and FLAT, making it much easier to work > with. Just curious: how do > you plan to "glue" the veneer to the core? Do you > have a press rigged up, > use contact cement, use a hot glue method, or use > hot hide glue? > > Paul C > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
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