Keyboard touch

[Nichols]

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Hey Bill,
    What's the budget? You can make a huge difference in half an hour, you 
know. Clamp 'em up, and file the tar outta the felts. Go to a fine grit, 
and possibly iron a bit, too. Brightens them up a bit, and like Ed says, 
aids the perception of the player. Also, you can reshape the tails while 
they're clamped-up with a right angle grinder and a 50 grit wheel. Take it 
slow, floating across the tails, and bring 'em down to as thin as you feel 
safe. Quick results, right there on the front porch (or garage) unless your 
shop is nearby. Teflon the knuckles anyway, and maybe consider a bolster 
job if they're out of round. Bolstering changes-up the half-hour job, of 
course. What kind of music does the owner play?

Later,
Guy Nichols

At 04:24 PM 2/16/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>I have a clients' grand action, an old Gulbransen. Someone has put on new 
>hammers, and the other parts are in good condition, the ivory keyboard is 
>in exceptionally good condition. He has carpel tunnel, and is complaining 
>about the "heavy" touch. I played on it, and it is heavier than I would 
>like myself. I measured the downweight with gram weights, and it averages 
>55 grams +. I took the job, but need some advice. There does not seem to 
>be excess friction in any of the action parts. It is my opinion that the 
>hammers are too heavy. They were installed several years ago, but look 
>almost new. They have a "fuzzy" look, that makes them look as if they are 
>"right out of the box." They may not have ever been filed. The tails looks 
>as if they have been barely shaped for the back checks, not the long curve 
>that is typical. I can see lots of wood that can be taken off. I bought a 
>gram scale so that I could maybe achieve some consistency in the wood 
>removal. My neig! hbor has a band saw, and I have a disk sander. I think I 
>could do the wood removal, measuring the weight as I go. Having never done 
>this job before, what advice can you give me?
>
>Bill Yick, Rpt
>
>
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>Yahoo! Finance: 
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