Front Rail Punching Interference

[antares]

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Glad you found ze problem..... always go back to ze basics.

(; >))))

EAR

btw...
you gals / guys know that our revered friend Ricardo Brekne is doing=20
really fine in Hamamatsu?
He is on a fast way to becoming a true piano tech master with the=20
emphasis on voicing.

EAR

On 13-nov-04, at 22:56, Farrell wrote:

> I think I found part of the problem already. The tooner before me=20
> "rebuilt the piano" - you know, the full monty -=A0new strings, =
hammers,=20
> damper felts (yes indeed, hanging way out past the damper heads)=A0and=20=

> keytops=A0=A0- none of which were installed straight/aligned, etc. I=20=

> imagine this thing had ivory keytops originally. The new keytops are=20=

> thick plastic (~2mm), and yup, you guessed it, he didn't plane the=20
> keytops down to compensate for the thicker keytops - so now I have=20
> keys that are one or two millimeters thicker than original.....
> =A0
> Oh well, back to the drawing board ........ er, a, regulating=20
> table......
> =A0
> Terry Farrell
> ----- Original Message -----
>  From: antares
> To: Pianotech
> Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2004 4:04 PM
> Subject: Re: Front Rail Punching Interference
>
> Terry,
>
> First of all, you need to know the exact key height of your key board.
> This is the key to your regulation.
> For instance.... the key height for Steinway model S-B (measured from=20=

> the key bed to the underside of the key top covering) is 63 mm.
> For Yamaha's this 64 mm.
> It is the only way to get your basis straight.
> After that, we're talking.
>
> Andr=E9 Oorebeek
>
> On 13-nov-04, at 20:47, Farrell wrote:
>
>
> Help!
> =A0
> I'm trying to regulate a Baldwin "Monarch" microgrand action. I=20
> haven't looked up the piano's age (can't find my Pierce Atlas), but it=20=

> is from the first half of the 20th Century. I've run into this before.=20=

> I level keys (1/2" sharp height), regulate blow, let-off, etc., and=20
> then go to set aftertouch. When I have the proper aftertouch on the=20
> sharps, the adjacent naturals hit the sharp front=A0rail punching =
before=20
> they hit their own front rail punching when depressing the natural.
> =A0
> That's bad.
> =A0
> What gives? Have I done=A0something stupid? Have I simply overlooked=20=

> something?
> =A0
> Another thing - I have to reduce blow to 1-3/4 inches to provide=20
> sufficient key travel (about 3/8 inches=A0- way less than spec)=A0to =
allow=20
> let-off and a tad of aftertouch. I replaced the back rail felt with=20
> original thickness (which is the thinnest sold by the supply houses),=20=

> I am using the thinnest front rail punchings available, and I even=20
> have key height a little bit higher than they were (and above spec -=20=

> more than 2-1/2 inches - I'm quite sure I'm still OK with the=20
> fallboard).
> =A0
> Again, what gives? Action clearly appears all original.
> =A0
> This is all a lot easier when you rebuild the action, go through the=20=

> Stanwood=A0and geometry stuff, and have it all correct from the =
get-go!=20
> Because, as in this case, it can't be me, it's gotta be the action!=20
> Right?=A0=A0 ;-)
> =A0
> Thanks for anything anyone has to offer.
> =A0
> Terry Farrell
>
> friendly greetings
> from
> Andr=E9 Oorebeek
>
> "where Music is, no harm can be"
>
friendly greetings
from
Andr=E9 Oorebeek

"where Music is, no harm can be"

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