Front Rail Punching Interference

[Farrell]

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I think I found part of the problem already. The tooner before me =
"rebuilt the piano" - you know, the full monty - new strings, hammers, =
damper felts (yes indeed, hanging way out past the damper heads) and =
keytops  - none of which were installed straight/aligned, etc. I imagine =
this thing had ivory keytops originally. The new keytops are thick =
plastic (~2mm), and yup, you guessed it, he didn't plane the keytops =
down to compensate for the thicker keytops - so now I have keys that are =
one or two millimeters thicker than original.....

Oh well, back to the drawing board ........ er, a, regulating =
table......

Terry Farrell
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: antares=20
  To: Pianotech=20
  Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2004 4:04 PM
  Subject: Re: Front Rail Punching Interference


  Terry,

  First of all, you need to know the exact key height of your key board.
  This is the key to your regulation.
  For instance.... the key height for Steinway model S-B (measured from =
the key bed to the underside of the key top covering) is 63 mm.
  For Yamaha's this 64 mm.
  It is the only way to get your basis straight.
  After that, we're talking.

  Andr=E9 Oorebeek

  On 13-nov-04, at 20:47, Farrell wrote:


    Help!
    =20
    I'm trying to regulate a Baldwin "Monarch" microgrand action. I =
haven't looked up the piano's age (can't find my Pierce Atlas), but it =
is from the first half of the 20th Century. I've run into this before. I =
level keys (1/2" sharp height), regulate blow, let-off, etc., and then =
go to set aftertouch. When I have the proper aftertouch on the sharps, =
the adjacent naturals hit the sharp front rail punching before they hit =
their own front rail punching when depressing the natural.
    =20
    That's bad.
    =20
    What gives? Have I done something stupid? Have I simply overlooked =
something?
    =20
    Another thing - I have to reduce blow to 1-3/4 inches to provide =
sufficient key travel (about 3/8 inches - way less than spec) to allow =
let-off and a tad of aftertouch. I replaced the back rail felt with =
original thickness (which is the thinnest sold by the supply houses), I =
am using the thinnest front rail punchings available, and I even have =
key height a little bit higher than they were (and above spec - more =
than 2-1/2 inches - I'm quite sure I'm still OK with the fallboard).
    =20
    Again, what gives? Action clearly appears all original.
    =20
    This is all a lot easier when you rebuild the action, go through the =
Stanwood and geometry stuff, and have it all correct from the get-go! =
Because, as in this case, it can't be me, it's gotta be the action! =
Right?   ;-)
    =20
    Thanks for anything anyone has to offer.
    =20
    Terry Farrell


  friendly greetings
  from
  Andr=E9 Oorebeek

  "where Music is, no harm can be"

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