fine grit hammer filing; Dremel tool

Joe And Penny Goss imatunr@srvinet.com
Mon, 15 Nov 2004 08:03:38 -0700


Hi David,
That is exactly the same experience that I had. Tried all of the motorized
ways after first finding that the paddle made my elbows flare up. My system
is really just a non-motorized version of Carl Meyer's electric knife.
Becuase I can control the speed of the removal of felt I remain in control
of the results. Not so withthe Dremel, McCall, and meyer system. That is not
to say that there are not those who are quite skillful with those methods,
but I am diffinately not <G>
Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Nereson" <davner@kaosol.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2004 1:15 AM
Subject: Re: fine grit hammer filing; Dremel tool


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 6:19 AM
> Subject: Re: fine grit hammer filing
>
>
> > Have you ever tried the hammer-routing/shaping attachement for the
Dremel
> > tool? Once you get the hang of it you can reshape a set of total trash
> > upright hammers in ten minutes or so. No need to even do any manual
> > filing/sanding afterwards. I wouldn't battle an old upright without it!
> >
> > Terry Farrell
>
>     Yes, I tried it a long time ago and couldn't figure it out.  Tried it
> again a few months ago and decided it's just not worth it.  If you're
> right-handed, you can do maybe half the bass section before your wrist
runs
> into the 2nd action bracket.  But at least in the bass, the hammers are
> angled and you can get the tool perpendicular to the hammer.  But to do
the
> second half of the bass section, even if you do it left-handed, the angle
of
> the hammers forces the body of the Dremel tool into the dampers or other
> hammers.
>     Same problem in the treble, but the angle is the opposite direction.
If
> you hold it with your right hand, the body of the tool is forced into the
> dampers.  If you hold it with your left, the action bracket's in the way.
> If the tenor hammers aren't angled ("straight bore"), you can do the first
> half of the tenor section, then you run into the 3rd action bracket with
the
> tool and your right wrist.  I'm just not dextrous enough with my left hand
> to switch.
>     But the main problem is that that guide just isn't all that great.
With
> it or without it, it's just too easy to dig a divot into the hammer.  All
it
> has to do is "catch" once, and, whiizzjhoop!, there went a big chunk of
> hammer.  Now ya gotta cut an equal-sized piece of felt out of a scrap
hammer
> and glue it in.  Just kidding.
>     Now on a grand it's a lot easier, but even there, I just can't tell if
> I'm removing one layer or ten with
> the Dremel sander drum.
>     --David Nereson, RPT
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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