Steinway Damper sytem upgrade

Erwinspiano@aol.com Erwinspiano@aol.com
Fri, 19 Nov 2004 09:54:08 EST


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In a message dated 11/19/2004 6:53:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, Erwinspiano  
writes:

 
In a message dated 11/19/2004 6:47:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,  Erwinspiano 
writes:

   Damperfiles
   I  just finished up the upgraded S&S grand damper  system & it  works 
slick. I can set the individual key lift as precisely as I wish &  then dial in 
the tray lift without the usual futzing with paper &  such. Damper pedal lift is 
readily touch-up-able which is really  cool & you can dial in a perfect  lift 
in minutes after the dampers  seat. 
     Also I matched the original leading pattern & recycled the felt spring  
blocks & remounted them to the new lever in the original  location in the old 
springs on the underlevers. This moves the  spring back & prevents it from 
hitting the bottom of the  upstop which the new spring slots approach  
interference
    I was having a bit trouble with nice clean damping shut off in the  
bi-chords. I typically use the Tokiwa damper sets which I like but even with  wide 
bichord agraffes in the lowest 4 bichord notes I had too much ring thru  & not 
enough felt penetration of the tip of the felt into the string  pair.
 To remdy  this I pulled the bichord heads all out & pinched the  nose of the 
felt to slip thru the strings a bit more &  voile. Clean sounding shut off. I 
got to wondering if some of  you are using the same felt. I think the French 
felt Loreux might have a  finer profile on the tip. 
  It also great to be able to precisely set the  upstop for one position
     Any way Skinned a new cat. Hope that''s OK with the  dog
    Thanksgiving blessings on you all
    Dale



 
   






   List

I've been modifying many of   old Steinway damper systems with a variety of 
features which greatly  improves its functionability & adjustability. Many of 
these ideas are not my own but have found  them useful just the same.grin. I've 
been installing  the new Renner Back actions fairly routinely which gives a 
more  effective sostenuto usage with the spring loaded tabs & also the  fact 
that individual parts can be taken off for service if necessary  without 
disassembling the whole dang damper action I.E. to reglue  some flanges that have 
come unglued or repin a part or  two.
   Along with  this I've  also found that a few other modifications which are 
not difficult to  execute also increase performance.
 ! Installing the tray center pivot pin so it  is in line with the underlever 
centers. This requires modifying or  making a new pivot block for at least 
one end.
  Result. 1.This eliminates the disparity of  function in the upstop 
adjustment. Meaning an upstop adjustment is  made which is equally good for pedal lift 
as is it is for individual  key lift.
  2. the heavy pedal syndrome is made more  normal by reducing weight & 
friction felt on the pedal &  eliminates much of the damper thumping on the strings 
by less  experienced players
  3. Eliminates the severe dipping of the  underlevers when the tray is out 
of adjustment that digs out the key  lift felt with extra friction caused by 
the out of  adjustment.
  4. removing wooden or brass pedal pitmans  that (always) squeak. This 
requires drilling an enlarged hole  thru the keybed 3/4" or so & installing a 
wooden dowel with 3/4"  front punchings glued to each end & a balance rail pin  
installed and protruding 3/16  inch out of the dowel. The  tray & pedal lever are 
drilled to accommodate the felt &  pin  


The result is a totally  quiet squeak-free movement 
5. Install a new set of Modern adjustable  pedal rods. What a blessing. See 
pianotek
 6. Install a capstan as a sustain pedal  lever travel limiter on the bottom 
of the keybed. This removes the  archaic block of felt method formerly 
employed on all Stwy pianos,  & others of course & allows for a precise amount of 
damper  lift& lever travel. A nice feature which keeps the  underlevers from 
slamming into the upstop felt creating those annoying  dents which reduce function.


 7.  relocate tray return springs. In  these pianos either a leaf spring type 
was used in the top treble end  of the tray or in later models a coil spring 
was  applied  on the bass end of the tray causing the tray to  warp.

   The new springs are fit between the  lever sections. One is mounted close 
to the pitman which is where it  needs to be to keep the tray from being 
twisted during  lift,resulting in a strange array of damper lift setting problems  
& eventual tray warpage. Some systems require another mounted  between bass 
and tenor sections.
 8. The last thing which is new to me came about  because of a conversation 
with David Love about this. Del had done a  tray for him this way & I'd heard 
about others doing this  so...
    I mounted small11/32inch long  capstans under each underlever. This 
allows for a very precise &  perfect damper lift without all the usual futzing and 
straining to move  a lever in the flange just the tiniest fraction of a mm/or 
inch for  standard folks.
  The lip of the tray needs to be thinned by  about 3 mm to allow for capstan 
head clearance. A quick pass on the  table saw does this in a second. 
  Drill the appropriate size hole for the capstan  shank & press with arbor 
press or Tap in carefully with a  hammer with the tray supported really well
8. Installing the extra wide bichord agraffes from  Pianotek on the lowest 4 
bichords increase the ability of the bichord  felt to get between the large 
bichord bass strings which  really improves damping.
 9 On many pianos, especially longer ones I also  find improved damping by 
using four equally cut pieces of damper felt in  the mono- chord section & on 
the first 2 to 4 bichord notes. This is  especially helpful on longer strings & 
also on smaller  pianos on which I have had all my mono chords double wrapped 
by  the string maker.
  
 
  An Addendum.
   Some later stwys , 1950 ish & later  came without return springs. I've 
learned this  the hard way, ( of course), that these need springs especially in 
the  bass. This is my humble opinion based on failure to damp experience,  even 
with proper fitted guide rail bushings & nicely fit wires, head  lift etc.
  These upgraded systems are a huge improvement  over the original equipment 
setup IMHO and are not difficult to do. It  does increase labor time but it's 
worth it
  Hope this is food for thought and  comment.
  Dale Erwin

 
 
Erwins Pianos Restorations 
4721 Parker Rd.
Modesto,  Ca 95357
209-577-8397
Rebuilt Steinway , Mason &Hamlin  Sales
www.Erwinspiano.com

 

 

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