I know this topic has been brought up many, many times over the years, but I wanted to maybe get some fresh perspectives, in case there are improved methods. I'm in the process of restringing an old "Leland" baby grand, and also major action restoration. These procedures have pretty much depleted my customers budget, so the added cost of major bride rebuilding is out of the question, at least for quite a long while. My question is, both bridges have some cracking and loose pins where the holes have become enlarged. I am going to fill these cracks and holes with either epoxy or CA glue and i wanted to get opinions as to the merits of both. My instincts tell me that I should probably start with thin CA first to seep into the cracks, then the thicker gap filling CA (like "Orange super T) to fill the larger cracks and extra space around pin holes. I appreciate all the advice in this regard. Thanks! Terry Peterson ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Joe Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net> Reply-To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> To: "pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Subject: Glue, in the field Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 08:13:03 -0700 Cy asked: "Joe, What do you use in the field for a joint that needs to come apart in = future, such as replacing a broken hammershank? --Cy Shuster-- Bluefield, WV Cy, I use Cold Hide Glue, (Franklin's). However, there's a trick to getting it to set up fairly quickly: When I anticipate the gluing on of a hammer shank and/or hammer, I request a coffee mug half full of the hottest tap water, (approx. 110-120 degrees F). I carry a small bottle of Cold Hide glue, that will fit into the coffee mug. While I am doing the prep work, the glue is heating in the mug. By the time the prep work is done, the glue is hot...er..warm, I'd est. about 80-90 degrees. I've found that this will get the glue to set up much faster, so that I feel confident that the hammer won't go out of alignment, 10 minutes after I'm out the door! (Yikes! DAMHIK!!!<G>) If I am gluing a hammer shank, using a straw splint, I use Titebond. (Now, I'll be using Titebond III). BTW, I don't like the Titebond container/tip size/configuration, so I empty an Elmer's white glue bottle, clean thoroughly and refill with Titebond. The reason being, that many times I need a very small orfice, (pinpoint, if you will), to force the glue into cracks. The Elmer's bottle will do that w/o "collapsing! Best Regards, Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain, Tool Police Squares R I _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC