Cracked Lid

[Farrell]

An easy way to tell oak (red or white) is by looking at the end grain -
there are very prominent rays that are oriented from the center of the log
to the outside edge. The rays in red oak are short and the rays in white oak
are quite long. Also, if you take a board of red oak - let's say 1 x 2 x
however long - you can stick the end in your mouth and blow through it - put
some soap on the other end and you can blow bubbles.

That's why they make wine and whiskey barrels out of white oak - air/liquids
cannot easily migrate through it. That is also why you will never see red
oak on a proper yacht - or at least one that floats.

However, red oak is wonderful to work with when bonding with epoxy because
the epoxy easily penetrates deeply into the red oak. When doweling, I
routinely use red oak dowels and set them in epoxy (two-step wet-out
method).

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Nossaman" <rnossaman@cox.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: Cracked Lid


>
> >I don't remember chestnut very well from my wood technology class - I'm
sure
> >I had to memorize it's properties at some point. But I have cut up a
number
> >of vertical pianos and the core wood was not poplar. It looked a lot more
> >like oak or ash, but clearly seemed less dense. Do you know offhand
whether
> >chestnut is less dense than oak and ash (both of which are darn dense!).
> >
> >Terry Farrell
>
>
> Beat me, so I looked it up. Skimming - I might have missed one...
>
> specific gravity
>
> Ash 0.49 - 0.53
> Chestnut 0.43
> Oak 0.63 - 0.88
>
> I also wondered about that core material that looked like oak but was too
> light, until some old timer told me about chestnut.
>
> Ron N
>
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