PVC-E glue

Robert Edwardsen eedward2@rochester.rr.com
Tue, 12 Apr 2005 11:45:24 -0400


>From my experience contact cement seems to last about 20-25 years before the
keys start popping off.  I guess we'll have to wait a little while to see
the life span of a PVC-E joint.

Rob Edwardsen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey@sbcglobal.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 11:12 AM
Subject: RE: PVC-E glue


> I have been using 3M spray glues for keytop replacement.   Specifically 70
for the keytop and 90 for the key.    90 on the keytop tended to make pits
wherever it touched the top of the key.   Since this is contact cement, I
can spray a couple of octaves (7 natural keys...B, C, D, E, F, G, A).   I
haven't had a set of keys come apart on me but then most people aren't
prying on their keytops anyway...;-]   It sounds like the PVC-E glue is a
better glue though it sounds like more work time...;-[   Do others size the
keytop as Jon does?   Seems to me if you apply while the glue is wet, it
can't have soaked into the wood much...?
>
> I figure 4 hours for a set my old way...I always clamped the just glued
keytops with a couple of Spurlock key clamps overnight because the keytops
tended to rise up slightly at the front.   I use a 1" belt sander for rough
trimming and hand file afterwards.
>
> David I.
>
>
>
> ----- Original message ----------------------------------------
> From: Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
> To: "pianotech-ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Received: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 07:57:31 -0400
> Subject: PVC-E glue
>
>
> >Rolling glue en mass to an octave may be a little messy
> >and difficult to get an even spread at the back.
>
> >Doing too many in advance of installation may allow the glue
> >to skin-over. So you would have to place the tops on immediately
> >and go back and straighten out. Depending on your skill and the keytop's
> >cooperation to align, it may be problematic to align the tops at the end
> >of that octave section.  I think an octave may be too much.
>
> >I apply the glue with a brush and have found that one or two in advance
> >of installation and alignment is about max to allow the glue to slightly
> >tack and not skin-over.
>
> >After you plane the keys to get a suitable gluing surface and to
> >re-establish proper natural-to-sharp height; thin the glue 50%
> >with water and apply a sizing coat to the keys and let dry. This
> >will allow for better bonding. Without sizing the glue soaks into
> >the wood quickly and unevenly which would affect your bond.
>
> >Gluing's the easy part, hand filing and getting straight, even, parallel
> >margins can really slow you down.
>
> >First time out... figure 8+ hours. Difficult old keytop removal and
> >any subsequent wood pull-out and filling can extend the course.
>
> >Have a damp rag at the ready to wipe off glue smears/squeeze-out,
> >after it dries it requires a lot more effort which extends the job...
>
> >Regards,
>
> >Jon Page
>
>
> >_______________________________________________
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>
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