This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Hello List When restringing I always extract the wrest-pins s l o w l y. I do this = in order not to generate heat and make the holes large. I always use = next-size-up wrest pins and copy faithfully the string terminations and = scaling of what has gone before. I always use Roslau "Blue Label" = (polished, not coated) steels.=20 I have a simple jig to wind on the new coil of string to the new wrest = pin using a stringing crank. This jig consists simply of a thick = hand-held Beechwood dowel with a hole to take the wrest pin and a No.10 = round-head screw screwed in next to that hole to use as a lead-in. I = first dip the new wrest pin into powdered French chalk so the pin turns = smoothly in use. I then use a punch to start the pin in the hole and = punch the pin in to a predetermined depth by attaching a cocktail stick = to the wrest pin punch. I use forceps to ensure the string stays on the = bridge and hitch pin while taking up the slack. I cut off the new string = using the width of four of my fingers to determine the length of string = used in the coil. (That's called "rule of finger") :-) I have a pair of = Eskilstuna piano wire side-cutters (Swedish) I have had them since the = late 50s ( that's 1950s). :-) Regards Michael G.(UK) ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/1f/b4/89/b3/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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