re-stringing and tools

[Robert Edwardsen]

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The 3.5 and 4.5 pins are also something to consider when repining an old =
block.  They are available from Pianotek.

Rob E.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Michael Gamble=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 1:48 PM
  Subject: re-stringing and tools


  Hello List
  When restringing I always extract the wrest-pins s l o w l y. I do =
this in order not to generate heat and make the holes large. I always =
use next-size-up wrest pins and copy faithfully the string terminations =
and scaling of what has gone before. I always use Roslau "Blue Label" =
(polished, not coated) steels.=20
  I have a simple jig to wind on the new coil of string to the new wrest =
pin using a stringing crank. This jig consists simply of a thick =
hand-held Beechwood dowel with a hole to take the wrest pin and a No.10 =
round-head screw screwed in next to that hole to use as a lead-in. I =
first dip the new wrest pin into powdered French chalk so the pin turns =
smoothly in use. I then use a punch to start the pin in the hole and =
punch the pin in to a predetermined depth by attaching a cocktail stick =
to the wrest pin punch. I use forceps to ensure the string stays on the =
bridge and hitch pin while taking up the slack. I cut off the new string =
using the width of four of my fingers to determine the length of string =
used in the coil. (That's called "rule of finger") :-) I have a pair of =
Eskilstuna piano wire side-cutters (Swedish) I have had them since the =
late 50s ( that's 1950s).
  :-)
  Regards
  Michael G.(UK) 
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