DC undercover installation

Cy Shuster 741662027@theshusters.org
Sat, 5 Feb 2005 12:21:43 -0500


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Well, I finished my first two-tank DC install yesterday, along with my =
first undercover install.  I was in and out in only six hours!  (I =
*will* charge for labor next time...).  I had imagined that the =
undercover would be flat, with the new universal tank, but the tank =
hangs down a few inches, creating bulges in the cover.  It's not very =
noticeable when you're done, though.

Special thanks to Don Rose for his detailed undercover instructions.  =
I'm pleased to share a tool that helped a lot: an electric stapler.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=3DproductDetail&productId=3D69391-0000003=
93-TRE500C

After I couldn't find the right staples for my hand stapler, I relented =
and bought the electric (about $29 US).  98 out of 100 staples went in =
cleanly the first time.  The only area I had trouble accessing was the =
vertically mounted Velcro on the back of the keybed at the curved side, =
but I still managed it.  Don scared me with stories of having to pound =
in most staples with a hammer afterwards... I think this is easier on =
the piano, since it only takes a single blow per staple.  This model =
even has an adjustable force setting.  I used the smallest 1/4" (6mm) =
staples, and they worked fine.  The tool is light enough to work with =
easily. =20

This little work light was a help, too.  The feet help you point it up =
while resting on the floor, and it has an outlet on it:
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=3DproductDetail&productId=3D203352-1373-F=
L-906MPD

A sidenote for the two tank install: they recommend leaving the hose =
clamp on the elbows oriented with the prongs downward (so you can get at =
them).  This is hazardous to pets, as well as your head, and especially =
the undercover. =20

It seemed possible for the hangar bars sitting on top of the beams to =
buzz.  I cut them down just past the end of the beam, and put scraps of =
undercover between the bar and the beam, just in case.  Any other =
potential noisemakers?  (I forgot that the brackets that the tanks hang =
from go over the bars, and so need extra rib clearance there; had to =
readjust a bit).  With the tanks on the side, I mounted them with one =
hangar bar over the central beam, and the other flush against the outer =
beam (since the bar couldn't go over it).

I had trouble figuring out a good layout for this piano (Samick WSG185). =
 It has four main ribs, fanned out, so I thought I'd put a tank on each =
side and the humidistat in the middle.  Unfortunately, since the =
humidistat has to go on a beam, I couldn't get it 12" from both tanks.  =
I put it in the extreme treble near the belly rail, but it's only about =
4" from the end of the main heater rod there.

I'd be interested to know what the general set of positioning =
constraints are for each component (grand pianos):
  - humidistat as close to soundboard as possible
  - humidistat at least 12" from a humidifier
  - humidifiers above the beams, unless the baffles hit the ribs
  - heater bars at least 3" away from where the undercover mounts (and =
use the 36" long main bar with the undercover)

Again, thanks for all your collective help here!

--Cy Shuster--
Bluefield, WV

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