general finishing question

[gordon stelter]

You DON'T sand the dried grain filler! If you seal the
stain coat with thined finish,  there will be enough
porosity left for the filler to "take",  but the
surface  between the pores will be glossy enough to be
wiped clean of filler residue when it 
( the filler ) is about 3/4 dry. At least that's how
the oil-based stuff works.    
    Then examine the panel for streaking, and wipe
with a rag or paper towell lightly dampened in mineral
spirits to get the last traces of residue. Result:
Filler in pores, clean, contrasting wood of desired
stain clor between pores. Seal with another light coat
( to prevent re-dissolving and bleeding of filler )
and start building topcoats.
     Thump

--- Mark Potter <bases-loaded76@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Terry <terry@farrellpiano.com> wrote:Hi Mark,
>  
> If you stain before filling grain, when sanding the
> dried grain filler, how do you avoid sanding through
> the shellac and/or stain? I seem to be
> grain-fill/stain challanged! Are you using water
> based grain filler?
>  
> Hi Terry - 
> I have used both water-based filler and
> solvent-based filler, and either way, sanding the
> stuff without sanding thru the color IS a challenge
> that requires constant vigilance while sanding.  I
> wish I had a magic word or two to pass on to you,
> but I don't.  As I mentioned in an earlier post,
> sanding the filler in the exact same manner that you
> sanded the bare wood is a necessary starting point.
>  
> When you don't use grain filler, how many coats of
> top-coat do you find is required to get a level
> finish - or do you live with the grain depressions
> in this approach?
>  
> Naturally all woods are not identical, but generally
> I would say that mahogany sanded to 220, dyed and
> sealed with at least a 2lb cut of shellac, will
> require app. 6 total applied coats of water-based
> material to fill the grain.  I just sprayed one last
> week where I stopped at 5 total coats of
> water-based, and there is the ever-so-slight amount
> of grain showing, a look I have warmed to of late.
>  
> Mark
>  
> Terry Farrell
> 
> 
> Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net> wrote: 
> Mark,
> So during the finishing process is when you re-add
> the missing 
> filler and stain, right?
> 
> Greg Newell
> 
> Hi Greg -
> 
> Yes.  First I would use dyes to get the color I
> want, then seal them with a wash coat of shellac. 
> If I AM gonna use filler that would be next,
> although oftentimes I don't use it.  Then, if
> necessary, a few very thin toning coats (tinted
> shellac, usually) on miscellaneous pieces to even up
> the color ( and, BTW, this does NOT have to make the
> finish look muddy, as you earlier suggested!), then
> on with the coats of finish.
> 
> Mark Potter
> 
> 
> At 06:06 AM 2/18/2005, you wrote:
> >Greg Newell wrote:
> >
> >When those of you who do, refinish a piano do you
> remove the filler during
> >the stripping process?
> >
> >Hi Greg - It is not a "goal", per se, for me.
> Whatever volunteers to 
> >come out during the stripping process, as well as
> the rinsing and 
> >scrubbing with maroon scotchbrite or #1 steel wool,
> is the extent of my 
> >endeavors in this regard. I then sand with 150 -
> 220 and start the 
> >finishing process.
> >
> >No brass brushes for me...
> >
> >Mark Potter
> 
> Greg Newell
> Greg's piano Forté
> mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 



		
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