Pinblock Plugging; was: woe on the boat,(block epoxy)

Alan Barnard tune4u@earthlink.net
Wed, 1 Jun 2005 09:23:50 -0500


As the loser of the sword fight said: "Point taken."

Alan Barnard
Salem, Missouri


> [Original Message]
> From: Conrad Hoffsommer <hoffsoco@luther.edu>
> To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Date: 06/01/2005 7:18:10 AM
> Subject: Re: Pinblock Plugging; was: woe on the boat,(block epoxy)
>
> At 07:06 6/1/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> >Alan,
> >
> >On most pianos, yes, it would be easier to just replace the pinblock.
But 
> >in cases where, as Ed stated "(the) block comprises the upper portion of 
> >the sounding assembly and there was no way to remove it without
completely 
> >destroying the piano and starting from scratch" or in the situation like 
> >what I photographed, when the pinblock is mortised into the case around 
> >more than half its perimeter (you would have to come close to building a 
> >new exterior case for the square grand to remove and replace the 
> >pinblock), then plugging rapidly becomes an efficient approach.
> >
> >Terry Farrell
> >
> >Question (based on zero experience in this procedure): When you have do 
> >all that, wouldn't it be easier, faster, and cheaper just to start with
a 
> >new piece of lumber?
> >
> >Alan Barnard
> >Salem, Missouri
> >
>
>
>
> If you are fixated to the idea of using "a new piece of lumber" and want
to 
> use your router, chisels and sweat, go for it!
>
> You could rout/chisel out as much as you want and lay in new. Good luck 
> routing close to the sides/stretcher.
>
> I've experimented, and (for me) it ain't worth it. Use plugs, and if an 
> exposed pinblock, veneer over.
>
> I'm intermittently working on a Krakauer which is similar to S&S with 
> doweling down into the inner rim. The stretcher is also integral with the 
> pinblock but, unlike $&$, the underside is not flat. There is a cove for 
> fallboard clearance which extends back further than the leading edge of
the 
> pinblock (by about an inch).  Construction sequence appears to be that
the 
> pinblock/stretcher assembly with the nice cove was attached to the
case/rim 
> with dowels and recessed corner brackets.
>
> I suppose I could have sawn the old block back to the start of the cove
and 
> prayed that:
> - the plate screws weren't "in the crack"
> - that whatever I used for a saw made a nice straight line parallel to
the 
> stretcher
> - the new block was the exact same thickness as the old to make vertical 
> fit easier
> - fit/joined the new block to the old
> - fit the new block to the plate
> - had several fits along the way
>
>
> I'm plugging away, thank you.
>
>
>
>
>
> Conrad Hoffsommer
> It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object realize that you are in a
hurry.
>
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