This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Ron Nossaman wrote: Actually, no, it doesn't make sense at all to me.=20 Oh geezzz. I'm a-gonner get hammered! I can see the=20 sense in the reaming/burnishing thing, except that the burnishing=20 mileage changes constantly as the pin fills up with flanges. Where's=20 the uniformity there?=20 You can either slide the flange once over an 18-inch length, or three = times over six inches. Pretty uniform. But then it gets to assembling the shank=20 (whatever) and flange, and you lose me altogether. As difficult as=20 it often is to push a pin through a birdseye, how is this done with=20 a long pin?=20 Hmmmm. Give me a week or so and I'll report back. I have done this = before, but it has been a couple years. Also, how does pushing the assembly down the length of a=20 long pin affect that fit?=20 Ditto as above. Also, since both ends of the pin have been=20 clipped with this installation process, how can you get the pin out=20 someday for another level of repinning without screwing up the=20 birdseye?=20 I remember in the class this question came up. Maybe if you use the $287 = Renner wire nippers you get a nice smooth cut. I suppose some = experimentation is in order here..... There may be entire worlds I'm not seeing here, but this=20 method strikes me as having a lot more built in inconsistencies and=20 problems than the backward and unenlightened way we short-pinners=20 struggle with, but then I'm sort of slow sometimes.=20 Could be. I know that is how Joel Rappaport taught the class (or at = least as close to it as my recollection, class handout and notes will = allow). Greg Graham wrote: The idea was that an entire rail of parts could be rebushed efficiently by using the Renner pre-glued cloth (Renner part 1049, get six strips per rail), pulling the cloth thru the bushing, pulling on the next part and leaving 1/16th inch between parts until the cloth is full. Cut the cloth flush with the left side of each part to separate them, and slide them on the shrink pins. Start the pins by hand, then use pliers to pull the pin. The first 3 inches of the pin must be tapered and roughened (by you) to ream the bushing to size. Polish the pins before you start sliding on bushings, so your first parts don't end up full of tarnish gunk. Fill up the pins with parts.=20 It takes three pins to do an entire rail of parts. =20 Soak the pre-glued cloth with an equal mix of alcohol and water to activate the glue and size the wool.=20 Leave them overnight to dry. They will be very loose on the pin when done. Slide them off, trim the excess bushing cloth, and re-pin as normal with regular pins. =20 Ken says to use a shrink pin one size smaller than your new center pin, or about the same size as the original pins you took out, since you often choose a new pin about .001" or .025mm larger than what was in the birdseye originally. =20 This is all consistent with my understanding of the method. This was a good class, and included many more tips on production-efficiency pinning, when to do it or when to buy new parts instead, etc. The point of the long pins was simply to keep speed up, individual pin handling/reaming/burnishing down. He certainly didn't recommend using the long pins to assemble the finished parts. Sliding a birdseye down a two foot pin doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but that's my LEHO (limited experience humble opinion).=20 I'm sure Joel Rappaport slid the whole assembly down the length of wire. = He did not employ the use of the short pins at all. I know I've done it = before, but its been a long time. I'll be into the repinning phase of = this action within the next week or so. I'll try it with the long pins = and with the short pins and report back. Ya'll've got me curious now. I = would have to agree that there doesn't seem to be any advantage to doing = the actual pinning with the long pins. Terry Farrell ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/c1/a1/64/03/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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