---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment David I see that you said this but it almost slipped by me. It's early If you=20 have much sanding to do I find most often I then need to re-notch all or pa= rt=20 of the bridge to clean up the terminations & sometimes it means quite a bit= of=20 re-notching .=20 With old dry bridge tops it's very critical to keep your chisel razor=20 sharp so you can peel the very least amount of wood from the notch. I'm a b= ig=20 believer that one should leave as much wood on top of the bridge as possib= le=20 for strength & integrity. The further procedure I now use is to then coat the bridge top with clear=20 coat epoxy and lightly swab the holes using a toothpick. After it=E2=80= =99s cured,=20 sand back the epoxy with 220 and then 400 paper. Recut the notches. With= the=20 appropriate bridge pin drill, drill out the holes again=E2=80=94slowly and=20= carefully=20 being careful about the angle. Insert the new pins with just a touch of=20 epoxy (very slow cure type) and wipe off the excess. When cured, spray th= e=20 bridge cap with a light coat of satin lacquer (I do it out of a can as it= =E2=80=99s=20 easier to control a light coat). Looks great and the epoxy hardens the surf= ace =20 nicely. David Does this suffice as a sealer coat for the notches too or are you=20 painting something in the notches first. We always brush in a coat of shell= ac & then=20 a coat or two of gloss lacquer. Looks very tidy. Dale Erwin =20 David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net =20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/4e/20/59/68/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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