Pinblock glassing

Stephen Grattan lostchordclinic@ameritech.net
Tue, 11 Oct 2005 06:49:00 -0700 (PDT)


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Hi Paul,
 
First, I fit the block using traditional methods until it is close then I cover the pinfield and flange with PREMIUM QUALITY SARAN WRAP - taping as needed to areas that will not be covered
with the epoxy mix.
 
I have been using West system 105/205 and the microlight filler for years.  I mix the epoxy up 
according to the instructionsand add the microlight filler until it is a little thinner than peanut butter (creamy!!).  Spread the mixture on the narrow edge of the block and put in place.  Clamp it to be sure it stays where you want it to be and leave it sit overnight.  Wipe off any gross amounts of squeeze out.
 
The next day - remove the clamps and teh block come right off.  The Saran Wrap will peel off effortlessly.  Any epoxy that worked around to the pinfield can easily be sanded off.
 
Works great and gives a perfect full fit every time.  By the way - the crush strength of the West System epoxy is FAR beyond what stresses the pinblock withstands and it will go nowhere.
 
Steve Grattan, Associate
Lost Chord Clinic
Port Huron, MI 48060
810 984-2757
 
Paul Dempsey Jr., Paul E" <dempsey@marshall.edu> wrote:
While I've never been a proponent of using fiberglass resin or epoxy to
mate a pinblock to the plate flange I'm wondering, if because of the
exigencies of circumstances I had to go this route, what are you all
using...material wise, to do this? Brand names, success rate, viscosity,
etc.

BTW, to the very few of you who responded to my last query re the
removal of recently installed plastic key tops, thanks much...the dry
heat from an old cloths iron or a heat gun did the trick

Paul E. Dempsey, RPT
Piano Technician Sr.
Marshall University
Huntington, WV
304-696-5418
304-617-1149

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