Hammer sanding ,machne

[Joe And Penny Goss]

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Hi David,
If you are thinking S&S pear shape, sort of hard  but dooable, espically =
if the final shaping is done with the paddle.
 If you want  resurfacing, very quickly and a touch up gang style this =
is a good way to go.
I have used all the electric devices that have come along the past few =
years, and feel that this is the best of them. That being said I still =
do it my way, and that way is a spinoff of this tool.
 I strongly reccomend this tool only if you are dissatisfied  with the =
speed of your work or have not developed a tecnique that you are =
comfortable with.
It is a tool that can lower the fustration level and boredom [becuase it =
is faster, leaving less time to daydream  <O( ]  of doing hammer shaping =
or speed up the process to get to final shaping with your old method.
For those who have pain in joints and arms while shaping hammers, you =
will find most of the work is done with the power tool.

Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: David Ilvedson=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 8:50 AM
  Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne



  Dale,

  A picture would be helpful in visualizing this...

  David I.





  =20


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-----
  Original message
  From: Erwinspiano@aol.com
  To: pianotech@ptg.org
  Received: 9/6/2005 3:45:03 AM
  Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne


     Carl -- David I.
    After using many forms of electric sanding devices I don't see how I =
can take a un -shaped set of new hammers & effeciently design a  hammer =
shape with this tool. Perhaps that's not what it's use is for. I =
currently use a small sand cat  belt sander & more recently  a Makita =
hand held belt sander with a 1 inch wide by 18" belt. It's a bit awkward =
& dont' recommend it for anything but gang filing when shaping new  =
hammers held in a gang clampm in  a vise with plenty of clearance.
    I do however use the makita on hung hammers when trying to do huge =
amounts of shape redesign & felt removal  but I just do the rough work =
with the tools & finish with 80 thru 400 grit paper. Short of that the =
foredom works bset for this particular job as one can focus all the =
attention to shape on one side then the other & lastly the top.
    my guess is that Joe's tool is extremely effective for the =
applications it was designed for such as upright actions.... Right Joe? =
Or splain it further to dense heads like me. Maybe I need one
    Just my 2 cents.
    Dale
    Carl,

    so it goes back and forth...how do you get a particular shape?   I'm =
think of a worn hammer where I want to bring the shoulders down and not =
the top.  How is that accomplished?

    David I.

    David, just push the sander fore and aft to sand only on side of the =
hammer.  Press down to sand the top.  Rotate the sander and push side to =
side to clear waste felt.  You need to do this since if you don't the =
felt will clog the paper and stop working.  Fifty or sixty grit is good =
for speedily removing felt.  For smaller hammers I usually squeeze the =
blades with thumb and index finger to sand only the sides.  Remember =
that this tool is basically roughing it in.  As Nick Gravagne said in a =
class "We're just shoveling dirt".  Final shaping and squaring is done =
using standard paddles or your favorite procedure.

    Carl Meyer PTG assoc
    Santa Clara, Ca.



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