Hammer sanding ,machne

David Ilvedson ilvey@sbcglobal.net
Tue, 6 Sep 2005 14:26:27 -0700


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
The tool uses emory cloth?   I've never tried it...I use garnet with pa=
cking tape backing...
David I.




Original message
From: "Joe And Penny Goss" 
To: Pianotech 
Received: 9/6/2005 8:55:46 AM
Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne


Hi Dale,
 The tenor of your post indicates that you are working on grands. The b=
eauty of the shoeshine methods is that it will work on either without h=
aving to change methods or tools used to get the same results. When I s=
ay shoe shine I am referring to the motion of the rag used to shine sho=
es.
While the rag bends to conform to the different shapes of the shoe, it =
is not able to reach down into divots in the area being worked on,
The emery cloth takes advantage of this fact as it shreds the felt off =
the high parts of the hammer, first the sides and then the strike point=
.
Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Erwinspiano@aol.com 
To: pianotech@ptg.org 
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne


   Carl -- David I.
  After using many forms of electric sanding devices I don't see how I =
can take a un -shaped set of new hammers & effeciently design a  hammer=
 shape with this tool. Perhaps that's not what it's use is for. I curre=
ntly use a small sand cat  belt sander & more recently  a Makita hand h=
eld belt sander with a 1 inch wide by 18" belt. It's a bit awkward & do=
nt' recommend it for anything but gang filing when shaping new  hammers=
 held in a gang clampm in  a vise with plenty of clearance.
  I do however use the makita on hung hammers when trying to do huge am=
ounts of shape redesign & felt removal  but I just do the rough work wi=
th the tools & finish with 80 thru 400 grit paper. Short of that the fo=
redom works bset for this particular job as one can focus all the atten=
tion to shape on one side then the other & lastly the top.
  my guess is that Joe's tool is extremely effective for the applicatio=
ns it was designed for such as upright actions.... Right Joe? Or splain=
 it further to dense heads like me. Maybe I need one
  Just my 2 cents.
  Dale
Carl,
so it goes back and forth...how do you get a particular shape?   I'm th=
ink of a worn hammer where I want to bring the shoulders down and not t=
he top.  How is that accomplished?
David I.
David, just push the sander fore and aft to sand only on side of the ha=
mmer.  Press down to sand the top.  Rotate the sander and push side to =
side to clear waste felt.  You need to do this since if you don't the f=
elt will clog the paper and stop working.  Fifty or sixty grit is good =
for speedily removing felt.  For smaller hammers I usually squeeze the =
blades with thumb and index finger to sand only the sides.  Remember th=
at this tool is basically roughing it in.  As Nick Gravagne said in a c=
lass "We're just shoveling dirt".  Final shaping and squaring is done u=
sing standard paddles or your favorite procedure.
Carl Meyer PTG assoc
Santa Clara, Ca.

 

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/c2/eb/48/2d/attachment.htm

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--

This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC