Overpulls was Re: Best Tuning Strategy using SAT III

[Alan Barnard]

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Terry asked: "If I understand you correctly, you tune the piano to A440 by ear and then use an ETD and do a pitch raise? Why not just use the ETD in the first place? Isn't that what it's for? Maybe I don't understand"

I'll explain, others might be in the same boat.

When I use the ETD, my pukingly persistent predeliction for perfectionism takes over and I just have to stop the lights. So for the example given, where accuracy isn't the issue, but speed is, I can go faster just setting a rough temperament, then octaves up and down using only fifths as checks (double octaves or arpeggiated chords in the upper treble). Am I unique, or just weird. (Please don't answer. <G>)

As to the idea of a one-pass 100 cent raise .... I can't imagine a 100 cent raise then a fine tune and out the door, stability wise. Maybe you've got your pitch raise and hammer techniques more refined than I do, but for anything over about 30 cents, I'm inclined to raise pitch, rough tune, fine tune.  -?-

Alan Barnard
Salem, Missouri


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Farrell 
To: Pianotech
Sent: 09/12/2005 10:29:30 AM 
Subject: Re: Overpulls was Re: Best Tuning Strategy using SAT III


FWIW, I pitch raise pianos that are up to 100 cents flat in one pass on a regular basis. That is, of course, followed by a "fine" tuning pass. Only on rare occasions do I have a string break on a large pitch raise.

If I understand you correctly, you tune the piano to A440 by ear and then use an ETD and do a pitch raise? Why not just use the ETD in the first place? Isn't that what it's for? Maybe I don't understand.

I experimented with a 100-year old Everett grand in my shop one time to see how far above pitch you could go before strings popped. Quite clearly these were original strings. Typically you could go 200 to 400 cents sharp before they broke.

Terry Farrell
----- Original Message ----- 

I also can't imagine bringing a piano from -100 to +25 but you don't have to. But if each string can't stand being up to pitch, they're going to be a problem, anyway. So ... 

For a piano that much off, I'd set a very quick temperament to 440, tune up and down quickly, then use the ETD for an over (or under) pulled tuning from A0 to C88. 

Condition of the strings, especially at the pins, the hitch loops, and the V bar/agraffs might have some bearing on my choice of procedure, but I have only rarely broken strings, even on big raises. And in those cases, aside from pianos so rusty they might have been brought up from the Titanic, it is usually a case of the elasticity being gone from the strings. If you lube the bearing points, etc., but then feel the string stiffen and stop yielding as you pull it up, you can suspect that the strings are genuinely shot and that next noodge is going to result in a resounding "twaaang." If restringing isn't in the cards, I have left a couple such pianos at 20 cents flat and tuned very gingerly.

Alan Barnard
Salem, Missouri

----- Original Message ----- 

I'm still the dinosaur, I guess.   I don't use any over pull during pitch raises...and a string will still break on occasion.   I can't imagine bringing a piano from -100 cents to +25 cents without serious string breaking...
David I.
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