One can get a little obsessive, it seems to me. (We love ya, Kent S., but you've got hammers like Imelda Marcos had shoes! <G>) I got caught up in that, too, but heck, you can only use one at a time. I've sold all but three; here's what I kept and why: 1. The old "student" hammer from the Potter Course. It's emergency backup, out in the truck, and because the head is fixed, it's great for turning that odd pin that is so tight it can loosen regular heads. Use it in restringing, very light and I don't care if it gets beat up a little in the constant tool shifting required for that work. 2. A Saucier Wonder-Wand. Inexpensive, very light, long shank for good torque and control, balanced so you can move from pin to pin quickly. Use on many pianos with average pin tightness. The secret to happiness with the WW, by the way, is to smear some mixed-up epoxy on the threads of the head and screw it on the shank. Otherwise the head flops and drives ya nuts. If you like to change heads when you change tips, this is probably not the hammer for you. 3. Jahn Ball-end extension hammer: It's my truck, not cheap, German made and very well engineered. Heads are reversible for different angles. All head and tip threads are cylindrical, rather than conical, with long threads so cross-threading damage and joint loosening don't happen the way they have on other hammers, for me. Rigid with a little helpful, pin-moving mass. Use this on tight blocks, e.g., Hamiltons, especially in the treble where I feel I have much better control without noticeable flex in the shaft. I often extend it 1 to 3 inches for additional torque and the ability to turn it through a larger arc under my hand with, still, a small change at the pin. Have several tips, including 3-inchers for getting over those pesky high-treble grand parts. I bought one of the Faulk hammers. It is a wonderful piece of engineering and very beautiful in an artistic sense, too. But I sold it because, being short in shank and overall length, it lacks the torque I feel I need for control and to get tight pins moving. It would substitute nicely for my number 2 section above but for number 3 I found it too much work and too hard to micro-control in the treble. I think others, with different hammer techniques, etc., might not be bothered with this, but I ended up selling it in favor of my "regulars." As to impact hammers: I've never tried one but I ought to because I frequently finger-slap and even palm-whack the hammer. On some pianos I can jar the thing right into tune with a stable pin, other times, it doesn't work at all. I haven't figured out why except that on REALLY tight blocks, I guess I'm just not wacking hard enough and I don't care to bruise myself for the cause. (sorry for the technical jargon, there, with terms like "palm-whack" that may have gone over the heads of newbies and the jargon-challenged <G>) Alan Barnard Salem, Missouri
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