---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment After many many years of gluing back ivories in the work shop and in the customers home I have settled for CA glue for both workshop and in the customers home.=0D When I first started gluing ivories in the sixties we used a paper glue called..I think... "Clag" this glue had to be clamped for 24 hours for a good job. We used to paint the key first with a mixture of the white oxid= e and the Clag glue and let it dry before putting the top on. These ivories rarely came off, but had the problem of the glue drying time.=0D The next glue that came popular was the contact glues. But, I started to = see them lifting off in school situations, and if not applied thinly enough showed the color through.=0D A quick way to color the key top after getting all the finger grease and = old glue off is to paint the top of the key with typists "white out" which co= mes in white and a ivory color.=0D In the workshop I use a thin off white water based house paint where dryi= ng time is not a factor.=0D I commonly come across pianos where 10-20 ivories have come off (mostly U= SA pianos #$%$^#)=0D The fast drying time of the "white out" and the CA glue gets me out of bringing the keys back to the work shop.=0D The bottom line is to prepare and color the tops perfectly before gluing.= =0D =0D Regards=0D Robin Stevens ARPT=0D South Australia ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/a5/3f/b6/f8/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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