Thank you Ron, Its also worth noting that an alteration of the pivot height will make very little difference to the length of the damper wire required. The height of the damper lever end will remain the same, since the back of the key height remains unchanged. Therefore, unless the damper wires were cut so short that the grub screw is clamping right at the end of the wire, it will be possible to change the pivot height without changing the damper wires. Sometimes you'll need to make a new damper up-stop rail, since the slot adjustment may not be adequate if you have to lower the pivot point. In this regard there is one thing that I neglected to account for and that is the original pivot device that the damper wire goes into is drilled all the way down to just above the center pin and this is done because the original tabs are not spring loaded like the new Renner parts - where the hole ends just above this tab - as the piano is at the clients home I will soon learn if I must shorten the damper wires. > Gene and all, > >>Gene----consider changing the pivot point of the back action to comply >>with >>the "pivot points" of the keyframe and stack. The protocols are fairly >>simple; call Dale Erwin or Stephen Bellieu; they've both done it for me a >>number of times. I did go back and look at this magic line and it really needed to be adjusted - thank you. What I have also done to the pivot point is something that Brett Dearing designed and that is to move it so that it is on the same plane as the damper lift lever flange center pin. This required building new pivot pin support blocks extending farther into the keybed and adding excess material to the ends of the tray. Now the tray and levers pivot on one plane rather than two. Gene
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