Subject: How do you subdue silicone in a finish? Dear List, I'm trying to put a proper decal ( not mailbox letters ) on the keycover of an 1880 Chickering. From the ripples and fisheyes in the existing lacquer, it is evident that prior to being poorly refinished, silicone-contining polishes were used. I wet sanded ( 600 grit silicone carbide with naptha ) the existing finish flat, then tried to spray a base coat of Deft lacquer, and it fisheyed all over again. So I wet sanded it again, and tried spray shellac. Same disgusting result. I'm guessing that several really fine "mist coats" of shellac or Deft would have to be sprayed, until it creates a seal up over the silicone-permeated lacquer underneath. Then decal, then full wet topcoats. But I thought I'd ask y'all how you might handle this stumper. Thanks! T Gordon Try washing the "infected" finish with a good liquid detergent like "Dawn" for dishes, or a good automotive detergent. Gather a pile of clean, cotton rags. Mix 1/4 cup of detergent to 1 gallon of warm water, which is twice the strength used for normal cleaning. Wash the surface and dry the area as fast as you can. DO NOT SOAK the finish and let it stand. Use clean rags to wipe off the soapy water. Use a clean rag as soon as you can feel the water in your rag. Let the piece dry for a few hours, or gently blow it off with a hair drier. Spray with shellac using mist coats. Build the finish without sanding between coats. When the finish appears full and glossy, level it with 320 to 400 grit non stearated (spelling) paper until you're happy with the surface. Now spray another coat of shellac, this time a little fuller, so it flows out to a smooth glossy surface. One coat should do it. Let dry overnight, then apply your decal. Mist the tops coats of lacquer; 3 or 4 coats should be it. Let dry 24 hrs before rubbing it out. Of course you've explained the problem to your client, so they'll be expecting a higher charge. Paul C
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