planers

[Farrell]

My experience mirrors Ron N's. I haven't made any adjustments to my planer's 
rollers, but by lifting up on the stock as the end comes through the knives, 
I can usually eliminate any snipe. I just made three new bridge roots for a 
client and I ran both the tops and bottoms of all three bridge roots through 
the planer to thickness them and had no snipe.

If I don't hold up a longer board going through, it will snipe the end.

When I am building soundboard panels (including your's - today!), I run the 
subpanels through my 12-1/2" Dewalt two-knife planer and again, by lifting 
the subpanels as the other end approaches the planer knives, I avoid any 
snipe.

I've run pinblocks and all sorts of things through my planer, and it seems 
that as long as I support the hanging end of the long board, I can get 
around the snipe issue.

I would suppose that some planers are better than others in that regard - 
don't know though, as mine is the only one I have ever used.

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message ----- 
>> Snipe would be a concern as one of the things I will use this for is 
>> planing out those little cutouts from Steinway long bridges.  Similarly, 
>> I will be running the topside through the planer as well.  What is the 
>> best way to avoid snipe when pushing something like that through?
>>
>> David Love
>
>
> The biggest problem is unsupported stock ends. With everything else in the 
> planer set up and adjusted to specs (particularly bed rollers and pressure 
> bar), lifting up on the back end of the stock as it goes in (at least 
> until the outfeed roller has the front end), and lifting up on the front 
> end (as the infeed roller loses the back end, until the stock clears the 
> blades), minimizes snipe. Bed rollers should be  barely above table height 
> for hardwoods. Some adjust the bed rollers clear down to bed surface 
> height. If the stock will feed with that much bed friction, that helps 
> too.
>
> Ron N