Hi Andrew, How many dollars to do all of this work? Perhaps Rick needs to ask if there is a budget? At 02:47 PM 5/10/2006 -0500, you wrote: >Rick, >If this piano hasn't been tuned in years you should plan on a multi >step plan to get it up to pitch. Here is what works well for me: > 1: Do an overpull pitch correction pass with individual unisons >reasonably close to each other. > 2: Voice the rear string terminations and bearings. You will be >surprise how many loose hitch pin loops and crooked string paths >you find going forward to the bridge. Then tighten the curve >leading forward to the rear bridge pin. Then tighten the curve >leading away from the front bridge pin. (In the conjectured >possibility that a string has climbed up a bridge pin, it will be put >back down on the bridge without hammering necessary.) Most likely >you have pulled the old curve into the speaking length and pushing a >little way out into the speaking length will help to ease it and >reduce noise. This will drop the pitch significantly (20-30 cents on >a D that was only 15 cents flat when I came to it.) > 2a: If you are getting lots of false beating after this in the >treble there may be loose bridge pins. Some ultra-thin CA applied to >the base of each bridge pin in the treble sections will help a lot >and may push pitch up a little (why I can only conjecture). Do this >before three if you think it is needed. > 3. Do another overpull pitch correction pass with good unisons. > 4. Lift and level all the strings in the agraffe section (don't >overdo this and groove the brass). Tighten the curve leading to the >bearing on the front duplex. Lift on the back side of the capo and >then on the front side. Level any strings that don't end up level >after lifting > 5. Fine tune the piano, some unisons will have slipped with leveling. >This procedure is what I routinely do for a significant >pitch-correction on a grand piano. It fills in most of the "wells" >of instability. I then get into the action checking for bedding and >then regulate everything. I usually lube the hammer knuckles with >micro-fine teflon. Pianists really seem to notice and appreciate the >reduced friction at the knuckle. Of-course there is the >psycho-acoustic affect going on too... ;-) A little sugar coating on >the hammers, was that a C7? maybe more than a little...and you're >good to go. Depending on how solid the piano is (pin-block, bridge, >board, beams and case squirming around under a few more tons of >tension than before) you will probably have only a fine-tuning to do >the next day. Yamahas are usually quite solid. > >Good luck, and do tell how it went. > >Andrew Anderson > > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.5/335 - Release Date: 5/9/2006 > > Regards, Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.P.T. Non calor sed umor est qui nobis incommodat mailto:pianotuna at yahoo.com http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK, S4S 5G7 306-539-0716 or 1-888-29t-uner
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