Thanks, Joe. I headed off to the library and came home with the book, "Success with Joints." :-) I saw what you meant in the book. I may go with the drawn tenon (pegged) since the mortise is a lot deeper than the tenon (and it's curved, too) and the wedges would have to sort of long. If I'm making a horrible mistake, someone please let me know. I'll think about the brace... Barbara Richmond, RPT near Peoria, Illinois ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett at earthlink.net> To: "pianotech" <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 8:40 PM Subject: Re: Harpsichord Stand > > Barbara, > There are two things I would do: 1. Cut a saw kerf in the Tenon part; make > hardwood wedges, (1or 2 degrees), that will fit into the kerf. Apply glue > to the mortise & Tenon parts, plus the wedge. Make the wedges length so > that when you assemble the part, you'll have to dead-blow hammer it > together, which will drive the wedges into the kerf and expand the Tenon. > This has been done on legs and lyres for eons. It really works well. (this > procedure is easier to do than explain.:-()) 2. I'd make an "X" brace that > would tie in front to back. This will sturdy the whole thing up and take > some of the stress off of the mortise/tenon joints. This brace can be > decorative and finished to match the frame. > Have fun.<G> > Regards, > Joseph Garrett, R.P.T. > Captain, Tool Police > Squares R I > >
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