removing shanks from butts

[Thomas Cole]

If the shanks are maple, this method can work well if everything is done 
right: the right size hole (#29 drill or close to it), soaking the area 
with a surfactant (wallpaper paste remover is good - give it a minute or 
so to soak in), inserting the screw and then applying heat (kitchen 
match for about 15 seconds should work), and finally extracting with a 
hammer head and butt extractor (Schaff #130A).

If the shanks are cedar, most likely the screw will pull out leaving 
most of the shank. As Dave said, you can now center the drill bit you'll 
need to clean out the hole.

Tom Cole

piannaman at aol.com wrote:

> Try this one I learned a while back in the RPT tech prep 
> class(intended for shanks broken too close to the butt): 
>  
> clip the shanks almost down to the butt

> make a fairly flat surface on the shank stub near the butt
> drill a small hole in the center of the stub
> enlarge the hole with a slightly larger bit
> SLOWLY screw in a small screw fairly deep, leaving the head out far 
> enough so you can use your shank exctractor (all the time being 
> careful not to crack the butt assembly)
> Extract screw and hopefully shank with it.
>  
> This might work.  AT the very least, it will allow you to center the 
> drill bit you may eventually have to use.
>  
> Good luck!
>  
>  
>  
> Dave Stahl
>
> Dave Stahl Piano Service
> 650-224-3560
> dstahlpiano at sbcglobal.net
> http://dstahlpiano.net/
>
>
>
>  
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: edmiller3 at hotmail.com
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Sent: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 7:42 AM
> Subject: removing shanks from butts
>
> List, 
>  
> I am about to rebuild a set of hammer butts, and put in new shanks and 
> hammers. However, I can't get these pesky shanks out of the butts. I 
> have done everything I've learned..... breaking away the collar, 
> soaking the shank/butt joint with wallpaper remover, even applying 
> some steam to help loosen the glue (it is hot hide glue). 
>  
> I've only tried it on shanks that have hammers already broken off. So 
> I've been using a shank clamp as the end point for the shank/butt 
> remover to push against. The clamp keeps sliding up the shank before 
> the shank/butt joint will break loose (and I've tightened it really 
> hard, to the point where the shank is pretty smooshed). 
>  
> Does anyone have any suggestions? 
>  
> Thanks, 
> Ed 
>  
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