Hammer flange question

[Mark Dierauf]

I have seen a number of Japanese flanges that have basically seized
where there is no sign of contamination or previous treatments. In these
cases I have had 100% good results by repining after carefully reaming
and thoroughly burnishing. Although I am not opposed to protek or other
treatments, my ideal center is untreated high quality cloth properly
sized with a clean pin. I have had problems treating previously treated
bushings and so would avoid that if possible.
 
- Mark Dierauf
 
-----Original Message-----
From: William R. Monroe [mailto:pianotech at a440piano.net] 
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 1:10 PM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: Re: Hammer flange question
 
HI Geoff,
 
First I'd lube, see what that gives you.  It may be all you need.
 
I might try using alcohol/water second, but probably would just repin,
if necessary.  I think you could just as easily argue to use
alcohol/water and shrink the bushings first to see where that brings
you, it's just not what I choose to do.
 
Then, depending upon what is revealed by these treatments, repin as
needed.
 
When you consider what each treatment is trying to accomplish, it is
more revealing to you, I think.  Lubing is just that, reducing friction,
without changing dimensions.  Both Alcohol/Water and Repinning aim to
change the size of the bushing in relation to the pin.
 
Best,
William R. Monroe
 
 
I understand that there are three ways to deal with too-tight flanges:
    1) repin - remove the old pin, replace and/or ease the bushing and
repin
    2) lubricate - with Protek, Goose-Juice, Naphtha+Silicon, etc.
    3) ease - Alcohol and water
 
What would you consider to be the requirements for any of these
treatments? In other words, why and when do you choose one of these
treatments over the others?
 
In the case of this Young Chang, the bushings and pins are clean,
showing no signs of verdigris. 
 
Looking forward to the discussion.
 
-- Geoff Sykes
-- Assoc. Los Angeles
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