More general glue questions was Glue for cracked rib?

[Avery]

Thanks, Ed. Just never heard of it.

Avery

At 07:52 PM 10/31/2006, you wrote:
>Cyano-epoxy aka Tech-Bond.
>
>-----Original Message-----
> >From: Avery <avery1 at houston.rr.com>
> >Sent: Oct 31, 2006 4:00 PM
> >To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
> >Subject: Re: More general glue questions was Glue for cracked rib?
> >
> >I guess I'm showing my "ignorance" here but what is
> >CE stuff? Not CA?
> >
> >Avery
> >
> >At 11:25 AM 10/31/2006, you wrote:
> >>Because this rib will be put under stress again, and
> >>the split is NOT on an old glue joint, I'm intending
> >>to use the CE stuff that Coleman sells. I don't
> >>consider hide glue, hot or cold, of adequate strength
> >>for this application.
> >>      Thump
> >>
> >>P.S. Coleman said he "uses it all the time" for
> >>applications such as this.
> >>
> >>--- ed440 at mindspring.com wrote:
> >>
> >> > Alan-
> >> >
> >> > Depends on just what you mean by "here."
> >> >
> >> > For a buzzing rib in a dying piano with no rebuild
> >> > value in a school struggling to recover from
> >> > Katrina, I would use whatever would work fast and
> >> > easy. (Probably CE, and I might press the rib up
> >> > with a wedge or stick to the floor or just my hand
> >> > for the minute it takes the glue to bond.
> >> >
> >> > For repair, rebuilding or restoration of a preWWII
> >> > instrument, working in my shop, I would probably use
> >> > cold hide glue.  (First I would test glue some scrap
> >> > wood over night to make sure my glue was still
> >> > good.)  A failed hide glue joint usually has glue
> >> > dust or flakes. You can't fully clean it without
> >> > disassembling the joint.  Cold hide glue is fairly
> >> > thin, easy to inject and will dissolve the glue
> >> > dust.  It gives you plenty clamping time and can be
> >> > reversed later with water and heat.
> >> >
> >> > To use Titebond you need to get the joint cleaned,
> >> > it is a bit thicker than cold hide glue and harder
> >> > to reverse, should that be desired, and you've got
> >> > to clamp faster.
> >> >
> >> > On a Kimball Classic with a soundboard coming loose
> >> > along the spine, I used Titebond and quickly clamped
> >> > with a strip of quarter round and drywall screws.
> >> > This job was done on site.
> >> >
> >> > On a rare 19th century piano I'd consider refering
> >> > the job to a conservator trained to deal with
> >> > historic instruments or at least getting
> >> > specialist's advice on what to do (or not do).
> >> >
> >> > I would not use the peanut butter stuff.  For gaps I
> >> > like polyfiber in epoxy. For cosmetic reconstruction
> >> > try Wood Rebuilder.
> >> >
> >> > Just my opinions.
> >> >
> >> > Ed Sutton
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u at earthlink.net>
> >> > >Sent: Oct 30, 2006 3:42 PM
> >> > >To: pianotech at ptg.org
> >> > >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for
> >> > cracked rib?
> >> > >
> >> > >----- This is a forwarded message
> >> > ----------------------------------------
> >> > >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u at earthlink.net>
> >> > >To: ed440 at mindspring.com, pianotech at ptg.org
> >> > >Received: 10/30/2006 12:35:29 PM
> >> > >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for
> >> > cracked rib?
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >Are there reasons for not using yellow glue, here?
> >> > (Titebond, Carpenters, etc.)
> >> > >
> >> > >And while I'm asking questions out of ignorance:
> >> > When you need to fill a gap, what about using panel
> >> > adhesive--the stuff that looks like peanut butter?
> >> > >
> >> > >Alan Barnard
> >> > >Salem, MO
> >> > >Joshua 24:15
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >----- Original message
> >> > ----------------------------------------
> >> > >From: ed440 at mindspring.com
> >> > >To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> >> > >Received: 10/30/2006 12:19:53 PM
> >> > >Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib?
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >>Gordon-
> >> > >
> >> > >>When you say "cracked" I'm assuming you mean
> >> > "separated," not "split."
> >> > >
> >> > >>Cold hide glue is usually the restorer's choice in
> >> > a situation like this. It will soften and
> >> > >>combine with any hide glue that is in the joint.
> >> > Hide glue is not gap-filling.  (I just
> >> > >>came from a great talk by Eugene Thorndahl, who
> >> > has spent 50 years as a hide glue
> >> > >>chemist. He said the gap-filling properties of
> >> > hide glue are an Internet myth.
> >> > >><www.bjorn.net>  He may be the only source of
> >> > genuine graded hide glues for
> >> > >>instrument and restoration work.)
> >> > >
> >> > >>For a fast repair, consider CE (Cyano-epoxy aka
> >> > Tech-Bond).  It has the shear and
> >> > >>shock resistance that CA sadly lacks, and sets a
> >> > bit slower.  Jim Coleman, Jr. and a
> >> > >>few other specialty distributors sell it.
> >> > >
> >> > >>In either case you may want to drill a hole for
> >> > access to the joint and inject the glue
> >> > >>right into the center of the problem.
> >> > >
> >> > >>Ed Sutton
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>__________________________________________________________________ 
> __________________
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