help me with soundboard repair? CA of course!

[Tom Sivak]

Ron
   
  I like this.  This is also easy.  I could also do this.  And I feel better about getting the soundboard back into its proper position: against the rib.
   
  Just to understand completely...you drill the hole in the rib to let the glue in to the gap; the screw however, goes through the rib and INTO the soundboard.  Tightening the screw draws the soundboard into the rib; that's why the glue squeezes out.  Yes?  Leave the screw in for a little extra added insurance.  Yes?
   
  Perhaps dumb questions, but I do want to make sure I'm getting it right.
   
  Thanks,
Tom

Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> wrote:
  
> That's easy. I could do that. 
> The crack is visible. Thin viscosity CA glue would run right through 
> the separation. 
> 
> Shouldn't I try to move the soundboard back into the rib first? With a 
> clamp or something? Then apply the CA? 
> 
> Tom

One of the admittedly few things I was taught that I would 
still do until something better shows up, is this repair. A 
soundboard steel slid between the rib and panel acts as a stop 
for the drill bit to keep it from going into the panel when 
you drill through the rib adjacent to the crack. Squeeze 
Titebond into the hole until you see it ooze out between rib 
and panel. Insert 1.25 sheetrock screw, and drive it into the 
panel, tightening until glue squeezes out around the rib/panel 
joint. Mop up squeeze out and walk. I much prefer mechanical 
fasteners and reestablishing joint alignment and contact with 
a wood glue to hosing down an area with CA and hoping for the 
best. Maybe it's just a lingering conviction that it ain't 
fixed until you've got some on your finger and clamped it 
together, but that's how I see it.
Ron N

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