First of all my mentor told me the first time I prefaced a question with"This is probably a dumb question". That there are no dumb questions just dumb answers! I have used a hypodermic syringe and large needle 18 or 19 gauge to put Titebond yellow glue between the soundboard and rib. I find them at farm supply or veterenary supply stores, a good brand is Lureloc, the needle threads into the syringe but both are still disposable and not expensive. After predrilling a hole for the 1&1/4 " sheetrock screw, make sure you get the finethread, there are coarsethread out there as well. I also use fender washers under the head of the screw on occasion if the gap doesn't close as I'd like it to. I also have larger size screws #8 & #10 in that same length in case the #6 sheetrock strips out in the wood. The washer can be removed at a later visit and re-used on another job. I have washers I've been using for 20 years! Another wrinkle, after the glue has set, you can remove the screw, drill the hole slightly larger using a stop or masking tape for a marker so you don't drill to far. Then insert a dowel and some glue, hammer shanks work well, I save broken ones for this since you only need a short 1&1/4 piece. I only do this for those pianos where the back will be exposed, churches, the occasional home. I am not a fan of CA glue for this type of repair, it's not as reversable nor do you have the working time if all doesn't go as planned. If your Titebond sets and your gap is still there and rattles you can soften/unstick it with a heat gun. I carry CA for emergencies when I don't have time for Titebond such as concert situations but for everyday use, I prefer the tried and true. On 8/4/07, Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> wrote: > > > > Ron > > > > I like this. This is also easy. I could also do this. And I feel > > better about getting the soundboard back into its proper position: > > against the rib. > > > > Just to understand completely...you drill the hole in the rib to let the > > glue in to the gap; the screw however, goes through the rib and INTO the > > soundboard. Tightening the screw draws the soundboard into the rib; > > that's why the glue squeezes out. Yes? Leave the screw in for a little > > extra added insurance. Yes? > > Yes, all around. > > > > Perhaps dumb questions, but I do want to make sure I'm getting it right. > > > > Thanks, > > Tom > > Not dumb questions at all, just clarification. That ought to > be allowable. Whether or not it's right is a judgment call > that makes my cut. If it makes yours too, it's a viable option. > Ron N > -- Michael Magness Magness Piano Service 608-786-4404 www.IFixPianos.com email mike at ifixpianos.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20070805/dc7a74fd/attachment.html
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