"With vertically laminated bridges, where it may be impractical to bend sharply enough to achieve this, the dogleg can be smoothed out a little..." And there are methods of building bridges where one can make as an extreme a dogleg as scaling demands with no compromise to bridge pin position to the edge of the bridge. You don't need to "smooth out" anything! Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- > ---- Jon Page <jonpage at comcast.net> wrote: >> Back when I was tuning full time, I found that Yamahas in particular >> were a problem >> at the area. On a thread regrading that many years ago, I think it >> was Ron O who suggested it was probably due to the difference of % >> breaking strain across the strut. >> A scaling problem basically. > > This is a common enough scaling problem, but one that can be overcome. > With a sufficient dogleg in the bridge, the speaking lengths can be > maintained at an ideal incremental value as between notes not divided by a > plate strut. With vertically laminated bridges, where it may be > impractical to bend sharply enough to achieve this, the dogleg can be > smoothed out a little, and the back bridge pins moved forward on one side > of the break and back on the other, maintaining the same angle for side > bearing, leaving the bridge pins comfortably positioned on a bridge that > does not quite follow the shape implied by the bridge pin pattern. I > never change wire gauges at the break, which would compound the > differences in beak %, tension, etc., at this critical point. In some > designs where the note on the bass side of the strut is allowed to be > longer than ideal, the increment of wire gage is reversed, using a smaller > gauge rather than what one would otherwise expect, an ever increasing ! > wire gauge as you go further into the bass. Most of the above is only > useful in designing or rescaling, but I have used a smaller wire gage > across the break in instances where I was not doing major bridge work on a > rebuild. > > Frank Emerson >
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